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From Birkins To Bolides: The Ultimate Guide To Buying A Hermès Handbag

The holy grail of luxury handbags.

by Emma Treagus Updated on June 4, 2024

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Renowned for their cult-following and exclusive releases, Hermès handbags are the holy grail of luxury accessories. Symbolic of its French origins, the affluent label is immune to indifference. You’re either turning your nose up at the six-figure price tags with an “I wouldn’t buy one even if I could attitude.” Or your social media feeds reflect a vision board where the Birkin and Kelly constantly compete for renewed infatuation. Either way, as the ultimate status symbol—mutually signed off by decades of it-girls and style icons—it’s undeniable that Hermès has left its mark on the fashion industry. However, we believe that the time-honored label has done far more than that. 

We all know that not anybody can just buy a new Hermès Birkin. To be invited to make the purchase requires a record of loyalty and patiently waiting out year-long waiting lists. And whilst such unwavering exclusivity may rub many up the wrong way, it also makes a Hermès handbag an incredibly smart investment. In fact, because of such preferential treatment, many Hermès handbags increase in value, retailing for more second-hand than new. Fashion lovers rejoice: if everyone else can justify investing in art—we don’t see why you can’t invest in a timeless bag. After all, it does so much more than ornamenting a wall. 

Hermès Birkin

Flying high in affluent fashion circles, it could be considered ironic that the Hermès Birkin bag was born mid-flight on the back of a sickness bag. Serendipitously seated next to Hermès CEO and artistic director, Jean-Louis Dumas, young mother and it-girl, Jane Birkin, implored the designer to create a bag with greater functionality. Little did they know that the design would become the crème de la crème of the Hermes range—and of luxury handbags in general. 

Today the iconic multi-pocketed rectangular silhouette comes in a range of sizes, colors and skins, with the exclusive bi-annual release remaining a secret to everyone but those invited to purchase a freshly minted Birkin. Thankfully for the rest of us, the resale market is equally impressive, albeit slightly more accessible. 

Covetable and collectable in equal measure, the Hermès Birkin bag comes in four sizes: Birkin 25 (also known as the Baby Birkin), Birkin 30, Birkin 35, and Birkin 40. Conveniently, the clue is in the name: For example, a Birkin 30 bag is 30 centimeters wide across the base.

Best for: Worth the wait. 

Hermès Kelly

Effortlessly elegant and unapologetically sophisticated, the Hermès Kelly bag pays homage to Grace Kelly in style and name. After the actress-turned-Princess of Monaco famously used the handbag to conceal her baby bump, Hermès renamed the Sac-à-Dépêches, crediting the Princess for popularizing the timeless trapezoid silhouette. 

Like Grace Kelly herself, the Kelly bag marries bold modernism with understated nobility. And whilst the Hermès handbag has been reimagined in a variety of hues, sizes, and fabrics, each iteration remains true to the original design with its signature triangular gussets, cutout flaps, shoulder straps, and double-sided strap clasp closure—making the Hermès Kelly instantly recognizable to fashion aficionados and novices alike. 

Best for: Grace-fully chic style. 

Hermès Constance

Celebrating continuity in a world of seasonal trends, Constance was created to be passed down to many future generations. Released on the day of the birth of Catherine Chaillet’s—the designer—daughter, the timeless Hermès bag was named after the newborn. The iconic exaggerated H hardware alludes to the immortality of the elegant-but-contemporary label. Whilst the perfectly proportioned crossbody silhouette poses as a highly functional yet equally fashionable addition to any ensemble. 

Like the Birkin and the Kelly Bag, the Hermès Constance cannot be purchased new online, but it can be found in perfect condition on many reputable e-retailers such as Farfetch and Fashionphile . 

Best for: Mastering the art of contemporary continuity. 

Hermès Haut à Courroies 

As the OG Hermès bag, the Haut à Courroies (HAC) carries with it the history of the affluent label. The tall, oversized silhouette was originally designed to carry saddles and riding boots. Whilst the brand’s signature adoption of the indestructible saddle stitch gives it the ability to endure centuries of use—be it on horseback or screaming through airport security.

The ultimate designer travel bag, the Haut à Courroies counts Victoria Beckham, Kim Kardashian, and Travis Scott amongst its fans. Whilst the spacious interior makes it the antidote to any on-the-go day.

Best for: Tall, dark, and handsome, please.

Hermès Picotin

Taking its name from the measure of feed given to horses, the Hermès Picotin honors Parisian simplicity with its minimalist bucket silhouette and uncomplicated detailing. In fact, the only real accent is a subtle equestrian-inspired padlock, alluding to the mystery kept inside the Hermès Picotin by the individual. 

As one of the most decadent totes , we’re keeping our Picotin away from the stables and sticking to the streets. We adore the buttery soft leather iterations for an everyday elegant accessory or designer work bag . Whilst the canvas versions lend themselves to a slightly sportier (yet undeniably sophisticated) aesthetic. 

Best for: Equestrian-inspired elegance in spades. 

Hermès Evelyne

Distinguished by the exaggerated perforated H, the Hermès Evelyne bag marries casual-sporty-chic with designer decadence. Significant of the brand’s equestrian roots, the perforated detailing was originally worn against the rider’s body for optimal ventilation. But like many things Hermès, the once-practical accent now serves as the ultimate status symbol—worn outwards by in-the-know girls and high-profile faces worldwide. 

With many generations of the Hermès Evelyne bag, additional features range from adjustable shoulder straps to exterior pockets, all of which speak to the highly functional yet unapologetically fashionable nature of the cult-favorite silhouette. 

Best for: Equestrian essential turned luxury.

Hermès Bolide

Understanding the importance of slow fashion for a fast-paced lifestyle, the Hermès Bolide doesn’t succumb to the chaos of a life in motion. But rather it brings a piece of serenity to the mundane—such as airport lines and supermarket queues. 

Drawing inspiration from Henry Ford’s factory, the zip closure speaks to innovation that remains on-trend for centuries to come. And as one of the most iconic Hermès purses, other practical elements such as the removable shoulder strap make the Hermès Bolide far more than just a classical showpiece. 

Best for: A frontrunner in functional fashion. 

Hermès Jypsière

Acknowledging the transitional lifestyle of the predecessors to digital nomads—gypsies—the Jypsière speaks to a carefree and confident attitude with understated elegance. Positioned as a classic reinterpretation of the iconic Kelly bag, the messenger silhouette is designed for everyday use. The adjustable shoulder strap sits comfortably on the hip. And the slightly rounded bottom gives off a relaxed-yet-refined feel. 

Style it with casual denims and off-the-shoulder knits as seen on Nicole Scherzinger or go full boho with a headscarf like Ella MacPhearson. Either way, Hermès Jypsière proves that you don’t have to live in a caravan to adopt a free-spirited way of living. 

Best for: With love from Paris. 

Hermès Herbag

Two for the price of one is not something you expect to hear from one of the most popular luxury brands , Hermès. But the Herbag is exactly that. As one of the affluent label’s most accessible designs, the top of the bag can be detached from the bottom for mix-and-match styling. Whilst the removable zipped pouch pulls double duty as one of our best designer wallets for women.

The canvas construction is endlessly durable and easy to wear with a slightly more relaxed feel. Whilst the overall aesthetic of the Herbag is reminiscent of the popularized Kelly bag in sophistication and style.

Best for: Multifaceted personalities. 

Hermès Garden Party

It’s simple. The Hermès Garden Party bag is the designer equivalent of Mary Poppins’ endless tote. And the spacious interior makes room enough for all the essentials—be it a hat stand or spontaneous picnic blanket. 

Besides its generous dimensions, the casual nature of the bag is emphasized by the canvas exterior and leather accents. Whilst a range of fun prints reflects an outgoing, celebratory attitude. We think it’s safe to say that the Hermès Garden Party lives up to its name in spirit and performance. 

Best for: Pulling it out of the bag. 

Hermès Lindy

A tribute to the legendary street dance, the Lindy Hop, this Hermès handbag encapsulates the groove of the 1920s. The soft, supple leather silhouette moves to the rhythm of your everyday routine. Whilst the signature side handles allow the curvy structure to hug the body. 

The gold-plated hardware adds a touch of pizazz to the effortlessly elegant Hermès bag. And the versatility of the design promises to keep up with your upbeat, on-the-go lifestyle. 

Best for: A life in motion—but make it elegant. 

What makes Hermès bags so special? 

Founded by Thierry Hermès in 1837, Hermès started as an equestrian harness workshop in Paris. And whilst the brand specialized in harnesses and saddles for European nobility, it was their equestrian-inspired handbags that stole the show. Hermès released its first bag—the Haut à Courroies—in 1892, designed specifically for carrying saddles and riding boots. This was followed by the Sac à Dépêches (now known as the Kelly), the Constance, and the Birkin—all of which remain household names to this day. 

What are now renowned as status symbol accessories began as functional pieces. Not only did Hermès patent zip closures for maximum security, but perforated sides were designed for optimal ventilation whilst riding. Adjustable straps prioritized comfort. And perhaps most importantly, premium materials ensured endless durability and wearability. Hermès famously adopted the indestructible saddle stitch, which cannot be replicated by machinery. Therefore Hermès handbags are hand stitched by a single artisan, ensuring impeccable attention to detail and unparalleled craftsmanship. 

Along with the bags’ timeless aesthetics, the brand’s exclusive approach to production resulted in years-long waiting lists, making them increase in value over time. Talk about a smart (and stylish) investment, right? 

How much does a Hermès bag cost? 

If you’ve tried to buy a Hermès bag, you’ll know that it’s not as simple as visiting the official website. Although you’ll find a few smaller bags, most of the iconic silhouettes can only be purchased second hand. Therefore the cost of Hermès bags usually comes down to the specific model, how limited it is, as well as the condition that it’s in. 

The most popular hermès bag, the Birkin typically ranges between $10,000 to $56,000 on the resale market. Whilst less popularized silhouettes such as the Garden Party and Herbag may range between $2,000 to $10,000. 

Is an Hermès bag an investment?  

Absolutely. Like all hyper-limited purchases that are high in demand, a Hermès bag is more than just a status symbol—it can also be a super smart investment. Distinguishing itself from other affluent labels, one has to be invited to purchase most Hermès models new. This means that the minute you leave the Hermès store with a Birkin, Constance, Kelly or other iconic silhouette, it has almost certainly already increased in value. 

With such a robust resale market, purchasing the right preloved Hermès bag can also be a smart financial decision. In general, limited edition styles, discontinued colors, and bags kept in perfect condition are bound to catch the attention of collectors, making them an excellent choice for fashion investors. 

What is the most expensive Hermès bag ever sold?  

Renowned as the ultimate status symbol, Birkin bags are the most exclusive, most sought-after—and naturally the most expensive Hermès bags. So how much is a Birkin bag? Or rather, how much could it be?

Made from rose gold and inlaid with 2,712 diamonds , the Sac Bijou Birkin took center stage in Hermès’ Haute Bijouterie jewelry collection. The design was released in 2012 with a price tag of $2 million. And whilst the mini Birkin bag is fully functional, it was intended to be worn as a bracelet. 

If we’re calling the Sac Bijou Birkin a jewelry piece and not a bag, the most expensive Hermès bag ever sold would be the Birkin bag by Japanese designer Ginza Tanaka, which sold for $1.9 million in 2008. Made from platinum and adorned with over 2,000 white diamonds , only one was ever made and released. The embellished strap can be removed and used as a necklace while the encrusted 8 karat dazzling diamond can be worn as a brooch. 

Where can you buy an Hermès bag?  

Whilst smaller types of Hermès bags can be found on the brand’s official site, if you’re after one of the classics, you’ll have to dig a little deeper. Of course, you could visit one of Hermès’ boutique stores. But this may require a flight, and you aren’t guaranteed to find what you are looking for as stock varies from one store to another. And if you’re wondering how to buy a Birkin bag in particular, well that requires an invitation from the brand itself after years-long waiting lists. 

Fortunately for those of us who aren’t on Hermès’ VIP list, we can find many signature models on reputable online retailers such as Farfetch , Fashionphile and Vestiaire Collective . Because the resale market is so robust, most Hermès bags are kept in impeccable condition, and finding the right one can actually be a really good investment. 

What is the difference between a Kelly and a Birkin bag?  

Both the Kelly bag and the Birkin are named after icons. And both have waitlists exclusively reserved for Hermès loyalists. So what sets them apart? In short, the Kelly epitomizes elegance with its signature clasp closure over the top, shoulder straps and trapezoid silhouette. Whilst the Birkin is recognized by its lock closure, shorter tote handles and rectangular silhouette, making it the better choice for everyday use. 

Both models come in a range of sizes, colorways and materials, although the Kelly has greater variety, while the Birkin remains slightly more exclusive. 

The colors of Hermès bags  

Marrying time-honored silhouettes with soul-stirring hues, color is the language through which Hermès communicates with its cult following. And those well-versed in the brand’s particular colloquialisms are likely already frequent users of terms such as: Vert Anglaise and Parchemin Pink. But for those who aren’t, understanding why some shades of pink are ten times the value of others can be pretty confusing. 

The extraordinary beauty of the affluent French label: exclusivity and mystery . One never knows what shades seasonal collections will bring in. And as a result, the brand’s signature limited hues are renowned for garnering a dedicated following of their own. Classical colors such as black, red, navy, dark green, brown and beige/cream are regular features and easy to find on the resale market. Whilst signature exotic shades such as Himalaya White and Rose Azalee are limited editions and have become highly sought after on the resale market.  

Which Hermès bag should I buy?  

Buying and selling Hermès bags can be a great way to make money. But just like any investment, you have to know Hermès bags’ names and prices. Iconic models such as the Birkin, Kelly and Constance are highly exclusive and sought after. 

The best Birkin to invest in is the mini Birkin bag. Classical colors consistently sell well, whilst exotic hues can be a hit or miss. However the biggest factor in determining which second hand Hermès bag to buy ultimately comes down to what condition it’s in and whether the Birkin bag price tag already reflects that or whether it can be sold for more. 

Less exclusive models such as the Garden Party, Herbag and Evelyne are a lot more accessible. So if you’re buying a Hermès bag to actually use, we would recommend looking at these silhouettes on reputable online stores like Farfetch . 

Frequently asked questions about the most popular Hermès bags

Popularized by it-girl, Jane Birkin, in the 1980s, the Hermès Birkin bag garnered a cult following of its own. The Birkin’s overnight fame and limited release resulted in long waiting lists. And today you have to be invited to purchase one from the brand itself. However, the Birkin bag is equally popular on the resale market, with the Birkin 25 being the most highly sought-after Birkin bag.

While many Hermès bags are iconic in their own right, the Birkin bag is renowned as the famous Hermès bag. Unknowingly seated next to Hermès CEO on a flight from London to Paris, Jane Birkin expressed a need for a more functional designer handbag. Exchanging the use of her name for the limited edition bag, Jane Birkin made the Birkin Bag a household name. And subsequently, it became the object of desire for all young women.

Singapore flight attendant turned influencer, Jamie Chua is renowned for having the most Hermès bags. The socialite’s collection exceeds 200 bags, all of which are displayed in her enormous walk-in closet.

When it comes to Hermès bags’ names and prices, the Birkin bag is easily the most exclusive, most sought after and therefore most expensive. With the comeback of smaller silhouettes, the Birkin 25 is particularly hard to find. Whilst exotic colors and materials are more exclusive than classical hues.

About the author

Emma Treagus

Women’s fashion & travel editor.

A former fashion assistant and budding entrepreneur who calls the world her home, Emma writes many of Luxe Digital’s women’s style and travel stories, drawing on her passion and experience for slow fashion alongside an appreciation for current trends. When she’s not getting her way with words, you’ll find her exploring a new city (at quite a walking pace)—locating the nearest sushi restaurant or devouring a book on the beach.

Learn more about Emma Treagus

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The History of the Hero: The Hermès Birkin

It’s not a bag, it’s a Birkin: this 40-year-old phenomenon is a better investment than gold

Whether you are looking to invest, want to understand how to to get your hands on a Birkin or just want to learn about the fascinating history of the most coveted handbag in history, we divulge everything you need to know about the Birkin right here.

The origins of the Birkin

Let’s start at the very beginning. Once upon a time, in 1983 to be exact, a famously befringed, achingly cool actress called Jane Birkin boarded an Air France flight to London. Her beloved basket bag had been intentionally run over by her then-husband, Jacques Doillon, two days prior, and she was carrying a nondescript replacement. It wasn’t fit for purpose as she ended up dropping her Hermès notebook, and remarking that no bag was large enough to hold all of her papers.

Luckily, her fairy godfather – Jean-Louis Dumas, then CEO of Hermès – happened to be sitting nearby. He introduced himself and suggested Birkin find a bag with pockets to accommodate her stationery overflow, before sketching a rough design on the back of a sick bag. From humble beginnings – like all the best fairytale protagonists – the Birkin was born, making its official debut in 1984. Much, much better than a glass shoe, we think.

Brown leather Birkin, £25,121

Green leather Birkin, £15,079

Cream alligator Birkin, £80,843

Brown Grizzly Birkin, £34, 318

Green leather Birkin, £27,114

Grey leather Birkin, £26,600

Unlike the Chanel bags dominating the 1980s, the Birkin was quietly luxurious and devoid of shouty logos. It was distinguished by a semi-structured body, two rolled handles, clou ‘feet’, and a turnlock closure, which could be secured with the accompanying padlock and key. (We’d posit that one ought to be less concerned about the contents than the bag itself, which had the princely sum of $2,000 then – £5,000 in today’s money – and now retails at a starting point of around £8,800.)

At 35cm wide, it was a more petite (yet adequately capacious) version of Hermès’ Haut à Courroies – the travel bag of choice for Jane Birkin’s ex-husband, Serge Gainsbourg. Today, the Birkin comes in three additional sizes: 25, 30 and 40 centimetres.

When did the Birkin become so popular?

Perhaps it was the Birkin’s discreet styling, or the fact that Chanel had the luxury market in an exceedingly chic chokehold, but this now-iconic bag got off to a slow start. Nevertheless, by the mid 1990s it had gained considerable momentum, and by 2001 it was firmly in 'It' bag territory, its status sealed by Sex and the City and the iconic line: “It’s not a bag. It’s a Birkin.”

In season four of the cult show, publicist Samantha Jones falls in love with a red Birkin 35, telling Carrie, “When I’m tooling around town with that bag, I’ll know I’ve made it.” After discovering that there is a five-year waiting list, she pretends the bag is for her client, Lucy Liu, which does not end well.

Over the course of the decade, and into the 2000s, the bag continued to grow in popularity, eventually becoming the ultimate status symbol. As more celebrities carried it, and as it grew in price, the Birkin became more exclusive, waiting lists started and its reputation started building.

What is the difference between a Birkin and a Kelly?

The Kelly is another wildly popular handbag from Hermés, which is also notoriously difficult to get hold of. There is sometimes confusion between the two bags due to their similar shapes. In fact, the design – which dates back to the 1930s – was the archetype for so many iconic Hermès bags to come, including the Birkin, but there are some key differences.

The Kelly was a little sharper, sleeker, more geometric than anything that had been seen before, architected to a trapezium shape, with a flap closed in by two side straps and a neat swivel clasp. In contrast, the Birkin is a little more slouchy and casual, while it also featured double straps and the Kelly featured just a single strap.

Read more about the fascinating history of the Kelly – and how it got its name – here.

Is the Birkin actually so difficult to get hold of?

The Birkin’s hard-to-get reputation is part of its allure. The details of how to purchase one directly from Hermès remains a closely-guarded secret but rumour has it that customers must have an established purchase history with the brand and have added the objects of their desires to their ‘wish-list’ – a term Hermès introduced since it no longer offers a traditional waiting list (some conjecture it never really existed, anyway) and only delivers a select number of Birkins to each boutique.

The Birkin’s scarcity has a lot to do with the time it takes to make. Each bag takes between 12 and 18 hours to create, at the hands of master craftspeople who have to undergo between two and six years of training before starting work in Hermès’ leather workshop. Additionally, the majority of the Birkin is sewn by hand using the brand’s signature saddle-stitching technique.

Recently, social media has been alight with TikTok users sharing with their millions of followers how to play "the Hermés game". According to them, this involves a carefully co-ordinated plan of purchasing pieces from the brand and developing relationships with sales associates in order to be able to purchase the coveted Birkin.

This strategy, while hugely adding to the Birkin's appeal, has started to cause problems with consumers. In March 2024, two customers in California have filed complaints against Hermés for only selling specific products to customers who they deem "worthy". According to the lawsuit, Hermès is violating anti-trust law by "tying" the sale of one item to the purchase of another, and the plaintiffs are seeking unspecified monetary damages and a court order barring Hermès’s allegedly anti-competitive practices.

Can you get a Birkin on resale?

You can purchase a Birkin on the resale market – as well as its sister, the Kelly bag – but be prepared to pay a premium. Given how difficult it is to buy directly from the source, resale Birkins are at least double the retail price, ranging from around £15,000 to £30,000 for a classic style in good condition, and well beyond that for something extra special (for example, the diamond-embellished Himalaya Crocodile Birkin, which sold at auction in 2021 for over £400,000). If you can afford it, it’s a worthy investment. A 2017 study revealed that the Birkin’s value has increased by 500 per cent in the last 35 years, and according to a 2020 report by Knight Frank, an investment in the bag is better than stocks or gold.

Indeed, the Birkin is the most searched-for designer bag on luxury resale platform 1stDibs , with the classic Black , Gold , and Etoupe colourways being the most sought-after. "The Birkin bag is arguably the most famous and coveted handbag on both the primary and secondary markets," says Anthony Barzilay Freund, Director of Fine Art & Editorial Director at 1stDibs. "Named for a style icon whose natural beauty and haute-bohemian lifestyle continues to captivate people and seen on the arms of some of the most beautiful and glamorous women of our day, the bag is also functional, versatile and beautifully constructed. The fact is very difficult to procure a new Birkin directly from Hermès, this has driven demand for vintage examples."

Eagle-eyed Birkin fanciers may be able to find pre-loved options around the £9,000 mark, if they’re willing to settle for a less popular shade or one with some wear and scratches – with the exception of Jane Birkin’s well-loved bag, which, cat bites, scuffs and all, sold at auction in 2021 for £119,000. In fact, there has been an uptick in those searching for love-worn Birkins after an old photo of Mary Kate Olsen carrying one resurfaced on Reddit. In its Luxury Consignment Report, The RealReal writes, “There’s a growing number of shoppers specifically seeking the je ne sais quoi that comes with a little wear-and-tear.”

Which celebrities have carried a Birkin?

Jane Birkin only has one namesake bag in her possession at any given time (she sells them when they become old and battered), but other celebrities live by ‘the more Birkins, the better’ mantra. Virgil Abloh owned more than a dozen Birkins, Drake has been collecting them for years (for his future wife, apparently), and Victoria Beckham is said to have amassed over 100, but this pales into comparison alongside the 200 owned by Singaporean socialite and entrepreneur, Jamie Chua, who is thought to have the largest collection.

Other notable Birkin owners include Kate Moss (who allegedly used hers as a nappy bag), Winnie Harlow, Jennifer Lopez, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and North West, who was pictured with a white Birkin at the tender age of six.

The Birkin in art

As a bag steeped in fashion lore, it’s no wonder the Birkin has been the subject of (sometimes controversial) art. In 2012, Francesca Eastwood – daughter of Clint – set one on fire as part of an ‘art project’ (thankfully, the bag turned out to be a fake); in 2014, Jeff Koons incorporated several Birkins with eminent former owners into an art installation; and in 2019, rapper Gunna released a song called ‘Baby Birkin’. More recently, an NFT ‘MetaBirkin’ (an animation of a foetus growing in a Birkin bag) created and sold by artist Mason Rothschild was the subject of a copyright lawsuit, which Hermès won, prompting brand fans to speculate as to when the luxury house might enter the metaverse.

For those who prefer their Birkins IRL, we’ve scoured the web to find the best resale bags, which you can see above. If anyone asks, just tell them it’s an investment – you’d be right.

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Hermès Produces Its First Vegan Leather Handbag Made From Mushrooms

The emergence of vegan leathers is a sign of the times as the globe shifts to more plant-based options, and luxury brand Hermès is buying into the action. Yesterday, the company announced an unexpected partnership with MycoWorks, a California-based start-up with a patent that turns the threads of the mushroom root (called mycelium) into a material that feels and looks just like animal-derived leather. Now that the marriage between the two companies is official, a new vegan Hermès bag is on the way and will be available by the end of this year.

Hemés Launches First-Ever Vegan Travel Bag Made with Mushroom Leather

The "Victoria" travel bag is the first byproduct of the collaboration and will mimic Hermès' classic sleek leather appearance, but instead with mushroom-based material. This unpredictable move for the upscale brand goes against company tradition: Hermès established itself as a harness workshop for European noblemen in 1837 and built its upscale reputation on providing the finest animal skins, pursuing calfskin, crocodile, lizard, ostrich, and alligator leathers in all of its designs, most famously, the Birkin Bag, which can cost more than a mortgage. Although Hermès noted that the faux leather will not replace the original Victoria bag made with calfskin, any step in a cruelty-free direction helps the brand to forge a new vision of luxury. Could a vegan Birkin be on the horizon? We'll have to wait and see.

Is Vegan Leather Here to Stay?

Hermés x MycroWorks is an unlikely collaboration we can all get behind, including Pierre-Alexis Dumas, Hermès' artistic director. “MycoWorks’ vision and values echo those of Hermès: a strong fascination with natural raw material and its transformation, a quest for excellence, with the aim of ensuring that objects are put to their best use and that their longevity is maximized,” Dumas said in a statement reported by Business of Fashion . “With Sylvania, Hermès is at the heart of what it has always been: innovation in the making.”

Luxury Fashion Brands Aim For a Vegan, Sustainable Future, Including Gucci

Hermés isn't the only luxury brand that is branching out to more sustainable and cruelty-free textiles: Top names like Gucci, Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren,  Prada, Valentino , and more found vegan alternatives to replicate leathers and furs without compromising million-dollar profits. In fact, Marco Bizzarri, Chief Executive and President of Gucci said of using animal materials, “I don’t think it’s still modern,” when the fashion house decided to ban fur back in 2018. Each designer is taking a step into a more sustainable, cruelty-free future, reflecting the growing demand for a greener and more compassionate world.

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Why Hermès, Famed for Its Leather, Is Rolling Out a Travel Bag Made From Mushrooms

Fungi, but make it fashion., rachel cormack.

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Hermès just sprouted a novel vegan leather alternative that will soon be used to fashion at least one of its storied accessories. The French luxury house has partnered with California-based start-up MycoWorks to develop a sustainable textile made from… mushrooms.

The fungi-derived fabric, known as Sylvania, is billed as “the exemplar of a new generation of biotech materials.” It will first appear on an eco-friendly version of the classic Victoria travel bag, alongside elements of canvas and calfskin.

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Three years in the making, Sylvania is based on MycoWorks’s patented Fine Mycelium technology. To make it, the company grows mycelium—the network of filaments in fungus—in a way that emulates traditional leather. This process creates an interlocking cellular structure which reportedly gives the material strength and durability akin to cow skin.

Sylvania will be manufactured in MycoWorks’s California facility and then shipped to the Hermès ateliers in France. There, artisans will tan and finish the faux leather before crafting it into sought-after collectibles. The inaugural Sylvania-based design will be the Victoria bag, which is slated to hit the market by the end of the year.

The MycoWorks Reishi leather is available for any fashion brand to use.  MycoWorks

Whether we’ll see mushroom-based takes on more Hermès leather goods , like the brand’s Holy Grail handbag the Birkin, has not yet been confirmed. ( Robb Report reached out to Hermès for comment, but the brand has yet to respond.) What is sure is that vegan alternatives to animal skins and fibers are only getting more popular at the high end. Luxury titans have shown an increased interest in sustainability in recent years, as well as a willingness to shun animal-based material. Just last year, the Prada Group, which includes Prada, Miu Miu, Church’s shoes and Marchesi, stopped using fur . Ending the use of leather could be the next natural step; a 2019 poll revealed 23 percent of people in the US believe it is a “somewhat or very inappropriate material” to use in clothing.

It is worth noting that the global market for leather goods is valued at more than $400 billion and Hermès built its reputation on delivering the highest-quality designs in the category. It is more likely that Sylvania and other sustainable materials will be used in tandem alongside the house’s trademark leathers. Still, the fact that this magical new material has been endorsed by the leather expert speaks volumes.

“MycoWorks’ vision and values echo those of Hermès: a strong fascination with natural raw material and its transformation, a quest for excellence, with the aim of ensuring that objects are put to their best use and that their longevity is maximized,” Pierre-Alexis Dumas, Hermès artistic director, said in a statement . “With Sylvania, Hermès is at the heart of what it has always been: innovation in the making.”

Rachel Cormack is a digital editor at Robb Report. She cut her teeth writing for HuffPost, Concrete Playground, and several other online publications in Australia, before moving to New York at the…

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The Drag Up Bag by Hermès

Hermès  is drawing from its roots and in doing so confirming the quintessence of its achievements past. From its heritage, the house of the golden triangle is offering us a rerelease of the “Drag”, a handbag first conceived by Robert Dumas in 1964.

This older sibling of the Birkin, designed by the father of the “Carré” scarf and the “Kelly”, is reinforcing the ties that exist between the saddlery universe and artistic creation. Classic, distinguished, sophisticated, the “Drag Up” is the culmination of the  savoir-faire  of the best artisans of leather, steel, gold, and silver working for this design house that, since its founding, has only used unalterable metals at the insistence of Thierry Hermès. On the “Drag Up”, the metal forms an H. Two branded clasps mounted on rods: a mark of identity, and a sincere reflection of Hermès’ discreet transcendence with the equestrian world.

The label’s creative director for leather goods/saddlery – Couli Joubert – is now raising the bar even more; the “Drag Up” is making its big début in the Hermès universe this year. Two colors – cinnamon and earth – two sizes, a more sleek, streamlined shape, and a perfect symmetry left over from the bag’s previous incarnation are more than enough to give this little gem a new universality. Even more proof that Hermès holds the keys to the loftiest of aesthetic and intellectual values. For, in fashion, one cannot triumph without the other.

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Your Guide to the Top 10 Hermès Bags

An Introduction to Hermès Bags

The Hermès brand was born in 1837 when Thierry Hermès founded a harness workshop in Paris. The company’s mission was to create equestrian leather goods for European nobles. In 1900, Hermès introduced its first bag to consumers: the Haut à Courroies (aka the HAC). This Hermès bag was designed specifically to carry riders’ saddles. In the 1920s, Hermès grew to include accessories, clothing, handbags, and travel bags. In 1935, the Hermès Kelly – then called the Sac à Dépchêches – was introduced, followed by the Hermès Constance in 1959, and the Birkin in 1984. Hermès has always possessed an unwavering commitment to quality and their leather goods are still handmade by highly trained artisans today.

1 | The Hermès Birkin: Timeless and Most Coveted

The most coveted Hermès bag is the iconic Birkin bag . Named after actress and “it girl” Jane Birkin, this timeless Hermès bag comes in many color ways, materials, and sizes. The Birkin was conceived by the starlet and Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas on an Air France flight where Jane urged him to create a Hermès bag with greater functionality. The four most popular sizes of Birkin are the Birkin 25, Birkin 30, Birkin 35, and Birkin 40 (the original size). Even at its smallest, the Birkin 25 can fit all your necessities including phone, wallet, sunglasses, and keys. The Birkin has been a highly coveted bag since the late 1980s, thanks to its timeless design, popularity among A-listers, and limited availability. Hermès stores are only allowed to buy a select number of Birkin bags bi-annually and the styles of Birkin are rarely known before their delivery to the boutique. As a result, finding a freshly-minted Birkin requires considerable time, patience, and flexibility. Resale platforms are disrupting this process by making Birkins more accessible to the public. Regardless, purchasing an Hermès Birkin bag – new or preowned– can be a substantial financial investment. Therefore, a Birkin bag is best suited for those looking for a timeless Hermès bag for all occasions.

2 | The Hermès Kelly Bag: Sophisticated Classic

The oldest and most classic Hermès bag is the Kelly . Frequently described as the Birkin’s older sister, and originally named Sac-à-Dépêches, this Hermès Kelly bag was a favorite of actress-turned-princess Grace Kelly, who used it to hide her pregnancy from paparazzi. The Princess of Monaco is credited with popularizing this particular Hermès bag, so much so that it was officially renamed for her in 1977. The Hermès Kelly bag comes in two styles: Kelly Sellier and Kelly Retourne. The differences are the stitching and the edges: a Kelly Sellier has visible stitching and a pointy edge, while the stitching on the Hermès Kelly Retourne is not visible and its edges are soft. A Sellier is a more structured, rigid bag thanks to the hard leathers artisans use to craft this Hermès purse. A Retourne is created using softer leathers, giving it a more casual look, and allowing it to fit slightly more than a Sellier. Available in smaller, trendier sizes, like the Kelly 15 and the Kelly 20, this Hermès bag comes in medium sizes, such as the Kelly 35, and large sizes, like the Kelly 50. There is an ongoing debate among Hermès bag collectors as to whether the Hermès Kelly or the Birkin are more functional, but one thing is for sure: Hermès Kelly bags are for the luxurious sophisticate who wants to add an iconic Hermès bag to their wardrobe.

3 | The Hermès Constance Bag: Simple and Luxurious Design

The Hermès Constance is a versatile bag worn comfortably over the shoulder and secured with the simple and functional “H” clasp. This Hermès bag’s designer, Catherine Chaillet, was pregnant whilst designing the bag, eventually naming it after her daughter, Constance. Chaillet’s design includes a strap that can be adjusted to make the bag hang long or short. In addition to the standard Constance 24, the Hermès Constance comes in mini and micro models as well as a rectangular model called the “Elan.” The Hermès Constance micro contains only one interior compartment, but buyers of other sizes have the option of a single or double interior compartment. Jackie Kennedy’s go-to, this youthful yet sophisticated Hermès Constance can be worn casually during the day or for an evening out. Like the Birkin and Kelly, the Hermès Constance comes in many material and hardware combinations.

4 | The Hermès Picotin Bag: Equestrian Inspired Bucket Bag

Hermès references its origins with the Picotin, whose name is the French word for the measure of feed given to a horse. This Hermès Picotin is a popular style thanks to its minimalist, functional design, inspired by horse feed bags. The wide, round shape of the bucket bag allows you to fit all your necessities with ease, and the lock closure provides a sophisticated accent. This Hermès Picotin comes in soft, grained leather that gives the bag a timeless look or in canvas with leather accents, providing a sportier feel. The Hermès Picotin leather comes in a variety of colors with either palladium or gold hardware. The Hermès Picotin is perfect for someone who needs a casual, simple Hermès bag for an on-the-go lifestyle.

5 | The Hermès Evelyne: Equestrian Essential Turned Luxury Bag

Like many other Hermès bags, the Picotin is inspired by Hermès’ equestrian roots. The Hermès Evelyne bag has perforations that form a “H” on one side, which hint at the bag’s original function: to transport horse grooming equipment. These perforations allow air to circulate the bag, drying wet combs, brushes, and picks. The ventilated side of the Hermès Evelyne was meant to be worn against the equestrian’s body; however, now that the bag is considered a luxury good, the perforations are worn facing outwards. This Hermès bag is highly functional and sporty. The Hermès Evelyne comes in four generations: Generation I, Generation II, Generation III, and the Evelyne Sellier. Generation I does not have an adjustable strap or an exterior pocket. Generation II also lacks the adjustable strap, but has an exterior pocket. Generation III has both an adjustable strap and an exterior pocket, making it the most functional Hermès Evelyne. The Sellier is the Evelyne reimagined: the perforations have been removed and replaced with a diamond-shape “H” printed on the front of the bag. The Generation III and the Sellier are the only two models still being produced. This Hermès Evelyne comes in four sizes: Evelyne 16 (formerly TPM), Evelyne 29 (formerly PM), Evelyne 33 (GM), Evelyne 40 (formerly TGM). The functionality of this Hermès Evelyne makes it well suited for travel or for use as a casual day Hermès bag.

6 | The Hermès Garden Party: Accessible Yet Versatile Tote

The Hermès Garden Party is an expertly crafted tote bag. This Hermès bag comes in leather or canvas with leather accents for a beachy, casual feel. The Hermès bag can be secured with a snap closure located at the top of the tote. Clou de selle snap closures on either side of the bag can be used to change the shape of the tote and provide extra space. The Hermès Garden Party comes in a variety of colors and four sizes: Garden Party 30, Garden Party 36, Garden Party 39, and Hermès Garden Party 49 Voyage. This is one of the most practical Hermès bags, given how easy it is to use and the amount of interior room it provides. The Hermès Garden Party’s lower price point and durability makes it one of the more accessible Hermès bags, ideal for those looking to make their first Hermès purchase.

7 | The Hermès Lindy Bag: Relaxed and Casual

Named after the Lindy Hop, a famous American dance from the 1920s, the Hermès Lindy was designed for comfort and movement. The perpendicular handles allow it to sit naturally on the wearer while the optional shoulder strap makes it more versatile. The handle positioning causes the center of the bag to droop. This Hermès bag has two exterior pockets positioned on either end and two zip closures sit on top. The Hermès Lindy is secured by a clou de selle touret lock closure. The Hermès Lindy comes in a few sizes: Lindy Mini, Lindy 26, Lindy 30, Lindy 34, and Lindy 45. The Lindy’s folded, relaxed style is suitable for someone who is on-the-go, whose fast-paced life requires a bag that can keep up.

8 | The Hermès Bolide: Travel in Style

The Hermès Bolide sleek design was intended for top drivers and world travelers. The Bolide’s trapezoidal shape fits easily into sports cars or luggage. The zip closure was discovered by Hermès CEO Emile-Maurice Hermès during travels to America. Upon touring Henry Ford’s factory, Hermès was struck by the zipper device he saw on the cloth top of a car. Suitably inspired, Hermès returned to France with a zipper patent and dubbed the bag born out of this discovery le sac pour l’auto, which is now the Hermès Bolide and a more minimalistic version called the 1923. This purse’s design meets at the intersection of classic beauty and function. The removable shoulder strap and rounded shape emphasize the Hermès bag’s practicality. The Hermès Bolide comes in two styles: the Mou and the Rigide. The Mou is made using soft leather, allowing it to slouch with use while the Rigide is studier and maintains its form over time. The Hermès Bolide comes in Bolide Mini, Bolide 27, Bolide 31, Bolide 35, and Bolide 45. The Bolide 45 is an ideal travel bag while the smaller Bolides are suitable for daily use.

9 | The Hermès Jypsière: Crossroads of Sporty and Glamorous

Introduced in 2008 by Creative Director Jean Paul Gaultier, the Hermès Jypsiere is a small, highly functional Hermès bag that can be worn on your shoulder or as a crossbody. A mix of Hunting Hermès bag and Birkin, the Hermès Jypsiere is elegant and luxurious without feeling static. This Hermès messenger bag features a frontal flap closure secured with a lock and a thick, adjustable shoulder strap. The interior features several compartments, allowing the wearer to keep her necessities organized with ease. Sizes include Jypsiere 28, Jypsiere 31, Jypsiere 34, and Jypsiere 37. This Hermès bag suits a sophisticated person seeking a smaller, more functional alternative to a larger Hermès bag.

10 | The Herbag: Approachable Hermès Bag for Everyone

The Herbag is one of Hermès’ most accessible bags thanks to its largely canvas construction. The top flap is made from thick, durable leather and features the clou de selle closure while the bag’s body is made entirely of canvas or toile. The top can be detached from the body, allowing for the wearer to mix and match Hermès Herbags. This Hermès bag, which also came in a backpack version, has been compared to the Kelly because of its elegant, classic style, however, the Hermès Herbag is a mere fraction of the Kelly’s price. The Herbag was discontinued in the mid-2000s and was reintroduced in 2009 as the Herbag Zip. The Zip has a few added elements intended to update the Hermès Herbag. The newer version features an external pocket, a zip pocket, and an interior removable pouch. The Herbag and the Herbag Zip have both handles and a strap. Hermès Herbags come in a few sizes: Herbag TPM, Herbag Zip 31, Herbag 39, Herbag Cabine 50, and Herbag Zip 52. The Herbag is an approachable bag for everybody.

Shop Hermès Bags

So, what are you waiting for? Whether it's a Birkin, Kelly, Constance, Picotin, Evelyne, Garden Party or Lindy - Sotheby’s Handbags has the perfect Hermès bag for your style and needs. Make an investment in your wardrobe with a Hermès bag. With over 180 years of experience and craftsmanship, a Hermès bag is timeless. Shop our selection of Hermès bags today! New arrivals weekly.

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More from Sotheby's

How the Dumas family, heirs to the $95 billion Hermès fortune, turned a leather store into a luxury empire and became one of the wealthiest families in the world

• There are dozens of heirs to the Hermès fortune, but two cousins, Pierre-Alexis and Axel Dumas, are at the top of the ultra-luxurious Parisian fashion house.
• Bloomberg estimates put the Dumas family fortune at $94.6 billion, making it one of the richest families in the world. It's one of just a handful of luxury fashion businesses controlled by a single family.
• Read on to find out how the famous leather goods company got its start and minted generations of billionaires. 

Thierry Hermès, a harness-maker by trade, opened his first shop in Paris in 1837.

Source: Vanity Fair

Hermès specialized in saddles. He'd take precise measurements for horses and riders and spend months making hand-stitched saddles. Perfection was expected — many Hermès clients were European royalty, such as Napoléon III.

After Thierry Hermès' son, Émile-Charles Hermès, succeeded his father at the helm of the company, he moved the Hermès flagship store in Paris to 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, where it still stands today. By the 20th century, Hermès had royals from all over the world on its client list.

In 1937, 100 years after Thierry Hermès opened his Paris shop, Hermès added square silk scarves to its repertoire — today, a signature Hermès scarf can cost upward of $1,200. Roughly a decade later, Hermès added silk ties for men.

By the mid-20th century, Hermès was a household name, known for its long wait times and extraordinary price tags. In 1951, Émile Hermès handed over control of the company to one of his sons-in-law, Robert Dumas.

Source: Hermès

Dumas had been the one to introduce belts and bags to the brand for the first time, though he kept these new products in line with the brand's tradition: bridles, bits, and saddles decorated the new leather goods and accessories.

Dumas also designed what would become known as the Kelly bag after the actress and princess of Monaco, Grace Kelly, was photographed carrying it in 1956.

After Robert Dumas died in 1978, his son, Jean-Louis Dumas, took over the company, a position he would keep for nearly three decades. The younger Dumas transformed the company's financials: during a seven-year period in the 1980s, Hermès saw sales grow from $82 million to $446.4 million.

Source: WWD , The New York Times

Jean-Louis Dumas not only diversified Hermès to include clothing and jewelry, but steered the company toward a global presence. He oversaw the opening of Hermès flagships in Tokyo, Athens, and Seoul, and today, there are over 300 stores worldwide.

Source: The New York Times , WWD

He took the company public on the Paris stock exchange in 1993, though nearly 75% of the company still remains in the hands of the Dumas family.

Source: The New York Times

In 1984, Jean-Louis Dumas met the actress and singer Jane Birkin on a plane. He inquired about her distressed handbag and asked if she would like to design a bag with Hermès. The result of this chance encounter would go on to define Hermès as a brand.

The Hermès Birkin bag would ultimately become one of the most transcendent fashion status symbols of all time. Wait-lists to buy the bag — the smallest size of which started at around $7,000 in 2022 — used to stretch years into the future.

Source: Vogue , Fortune

But at this point, demand has so far outpaced supply that prospective buyers are turning to the secondary market to score their Birkins.

Like all Hermès accessories, a Birkin bag does not leave the workshop until it is perfect. It can take up to 25 hours to produce just one Birkin bag.

Source: Huffington Post

An extremely rare Himalayan Niloticus Crocodile Birkin bag sold for around $295,000 in 2021, becoming the most expensive bag to sell at auction. The handbag featured white-gold accents and 245 diamonds totaling 9.84 carats.

Source: Bloomberg, Christie's

Some experts consider buying expensive bags like the Birkin a better investment than buying stocks.

Alongside the overwhelming success of the Birkin, Jean-Louis Dumas also made a shrewd move in appointing bad-boy couturier Jean Paul Gaultier as Hermès creative director in 2003, replacing Belgian designer Martin Margiela. Gaultier stayed in the position until 2010, and sales rose during his tenure with the brand.

Jean-Louis Dumas' wife, Rena, designed more than 150 stores for Hermès. The clean, open, almost postmodern spaces have helped define the brand's image.

In 2005, Jean-Louis Dumas announced he would be retiring after nearly 30 years as the company's chairman and CEO. By 2006, he had overseen the growth of Hermès sales to nearly $2 billion.

In 2010, Jean-Louis Dumas died at the age of 72. A statement released by the company did not specify the cause of death, but it was reported that Dumas had Parkinson's disease.

In typical Hermès fashion, Jean-Louis Dumas handed the creative reins of the luxury house to his son, Pierre-Alexis Dumas, naming him artistic director in 2002.

Source: WWD , Harper's Bazaar

"I knew my father was worried that people would accuse him of favoritism regarding his son," Pierre-Alexis Dumas said in an interview with Harper's Bazaar in 2013. "I also knew that secretly he wanted me to work with him. People were hypnotized by my father; he was very charismatic. To be the son of Jean-Louis was very intimidating."

Source: Harper's Bazaar

Axel Dumas, nephew of Jean-Louis Dumas, joined Hermès in 2003 and was appointed CEO in 2014. Today, he also serves as executive chairman.

"Axel is financial and very charismatic, more like my father, with a strong commercial vision," Pierre-Alexis Dumas said in 2013 of his cousin's role at Hermès.

Source : Harper's Bazaar

The role of each Dumas cousin is different. "My job is to keep the strong creativity of Hermès alive. To nourish the rigor and the vision ... to make these values vibrate," Pierre-Alexis Dumas said in an interview with Business of Fashion.

Source: Business of Fashion

Over the past decade, the brand has partnered with other luxury firms, launching products like the Hermès Apple Watch and an Hermès Bugatti Veyron, introduced in 2010. At $2.1 million, it was one of the world's most expensive cars, with Hermès leather enveloping nearly every inch of the interior.

Source: The Wall Street Journal

Hermès also teamed up with Eurocopter to design a nearly $8 million helicopter. In 2011, Pierre-Alexis Dumas said the brand had already sold two, with six on the waitlist.

"Our business is about creating desire," Axel Dumas said in a 2014 interview with Forbes. "It can be fickle because desire is fickle, but we try to have creativity to suspend the momentum."

Source: Forbes

But creating desire is just half of the equation. When Axel Dumas took charge of Hermès, he also increased the production of its handbags, which boosted sales. The company finished 2022 with a 32% increase in sales in the fourth quarter and a 23% jump in revenue for the year.

Source: The Wall Street Journal, WWD

The Dumas cousins share "an obsession with continually renewing and refreshing Hermès, no matter how august its history," according to W magazine.

Their vision is paying off with a new generation of consumers who want a piece of the "intangible capital" the historic luxury brand provides, Axel Dumas said following the company's most recent earnings. "There's been a middle class, larger in number, younger and richer," he said. "New customers who don't necessarily buy our most expensive products but that are part of this success."

Source: WWD

The company has had to fend off its share of opponents. In 2010, French luxury giant LVMH began stealthily accruing shares of Hermès, amassing a 20% stake in the business and leading to speculation that Hermès was about to become yet another acquisition target for LVMH's cunning chief executive, Bernard Arnault.

Source: Bloomberg

The crafty way Arnault went about acquiring shares — which ultimately resulted in a fine from the French government — infuriated Hermès. Patrick Thomas, the firm's CEO at the time, compared the maneuver to sexual assault.

Source: The Economist, Financial Times

The Dumas family held onto the business, outfoxing Arnault by pooling their shares and committing to owning their stakes until 2031, but the situation sparked a legal war that lasted four years. Arnault ultimately admitted defeat: by 2017, he'd swapped out the last of his Hermès shares.

Source: The Economist, The New York Times , Financial Times

The company took on a more modern foe in 2023 when it sued digital artist Mason Rothschild over his "MetaBirkin" NFTs. A court ruled in February that the NFTs violated Hermès' trademark and awarded the company $133,000 in total damages.

Through it all, the sixth-generation Dumas family fortune has been on the rise. In 2022, Bloomberg estimated the Dumas family, which now includes dozens of descendants, is worth $94.6 billion, making it the world's fifth-richest family.

Source: Forbes , Bloomberg

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