cruise control light blinking subaru outback

Why is Subaru Cruise Control Light Flashing on My Car Dashboard?

Driving can be fun, but long-distance driving can be fatiguing as you keep pressing the gas pedal to keep the car going at your desired speed. Thankfully, cars now feature cruise control — a system that lets drivers set a desired speed and relaxes their feet when traveling a long journey.

You can activate the system by pressing the cruise control button and the vehicle will keep you at the current speed. So you don’t have to depress the gas pedal to keep the car running. Cars with advanced cruise control systems use sensors at the front bumper to detect vehicles ahead of them and keep the car at a distance to prevent collision.

Like other system components, the cruise control does have issues. And these issues are common with Subaru cars. Most Subaru owners complain of Subaru cruise control light flashing on the dashboard as they drive.

Why does my Subaru cruise control light keep flashing?

The most common reason why the cruise control light is flashing on your Subaru is due to an electrical or mechanical problem. Remember, when the light is flashing, the cruise control system is disabled, so don’t try to turn it on because it won’t work.

In some other cases, the cruise control light may be flashing due to a defective or loose gas cap, a blown fuse for the cruise control, a failing brake pedal switch, or a defective vehicle speed sensor. Let’s have an in-depth look to see how these issues could cause cruise control light flashing on Subaru Outback and other Subaru models.

Blown fuses

The cruise control system consists of several electrical systems protected by a fuse. The fuse can blow up if there’s an electrical power issue, preventing the key components from failing. If that happens, it will disable the cruise control system. In some cases, the car computer will start flashing the cruise control light on the dashboard to notify you that there’s an underlying issue that needs urgent attention.

If you suspect the fuse is blown, replace it and see if that fixes the cruise control system and clear the blinking light on the dashboard.  If that resolves the problem but the fuse blows in no time and the light starts blinking again, you have other electrical issues. Contact your mechanic for a thorough diagnosis.

Defective speed sensor

The vehicle speed sensor is one of the essential components of the cruise control system. When you activate the cruise control, the onboard computer collects information from the speed sensor to know when to increase and decrease the engine speed.

The vehicle speed sensor is mounted at the tail end of your transmission, and if it malfunctions, the cruise control light will start blinking on the dashboard. The speed sensor is needed to ensure that the speedometer and the odometer work correctly, and without it, the cruise control system will be affected.

If you notice the cruise control light flashing and check engine light is on, check the vehicle speed sensor. A bad speed sensor triggers the check engine light and disables the cruise control system. This sensor cannot be repaired. So, if it is the root cause, the only solution is to replace it with a new one.

Loose gas cap

Believe it or not, the gas cap plays a crucial role in your vehicle’s overall functionality. The gas cap can affect the performance of the cruise control system. For instance, in Subarus, a loose gas cap can cause the cruise control light to blink as you drive. It can also trigger the check engine light to pop on the dashboard. So, a loose gas cap can cause the Subaru Forester check engine light with flashing cruise control to pop on the dashboard.

Faulty mechanical component

If you own an older Subaru car, the cruise control light could be flashing due to a faulty mechanical component. In older models, the cruise control system has a cable, connecting the throttle to an air actuator, which regulates the cable to keep the vehicle at the set speed settings.

If any of the mechanical components go bad, it can disable the system and trigger the blinking light on the dashboard.

Malfunctioning brake pedal switch

Under perfect conditions, the brake lights shine as you depress the brake pedal. There’s a component attached to the brake pedal — the brake pedal switch, which tells the brake lights to light up as you depress the pedal.

If the switch goes bad, the brake lights won’t know when you step on the brake pedal. But aside from this, a bad brake pedal switch can also affect the cruise control system.

When you activate the cruise control system, the system will deactivate and switch to manual mode whenever you step on the brake pedal. If the switch malfunctions, it may send wrong signals to the cruise control system, telling it the brake pedal is always depressed, preventing the cruise control system from turning on.

System malfunction

If your Subaru check engine light is flashing along with the cruise control light and the brake pedal switch, fuses, and vehicle speed sensors are good, you have a problem somewhere in the cruise control system.

To determine the root cause of the malfunction, you need a mechanic to diagnose the vehicle. The mechanic will inspect all cruise control components and may plug in a scan tool to pull out all the error codes in the vehicle.

It’s okay for the cruise control light to be on when you activate it, but if the light comes on when you are not using the cruise control, or the light starts blinking when you activate it, there’s a problem that needs to be addressed. In most cases, a flashing cruise control light on Subaru is accompanied by the engine warning light.

What to do if your Subaru cruise control light flashing?

Whenever the Subrau cruise control light starts flashing on the dashboard, the cruise control has malfunctioned or disabled. Hence, do not turn on the cruise control system. If the light starts flashing after getting gas, locate a safe spot and pull over. Check the gas cap and re-tighten it. It could be you did not secure the gas cap properly.

If that do not solve the problem, drive straight to your mechanic and have them diagnose and fix the problem.

Does the cruise control stop working when check engine light is on?

If the onboard computer detects a problem with your transmission or the engine, it will display the check engine light and disable certain vehicle functions, like the cruise control system, to prevent further damage until you address the issue.

Let’s be clear here; this does not mean that the PCM must disable the cruise control whenever it detects an issue with the engine or transmission. It will only disable the system if the issue is causing unstable engine performance.

Subaru Outback check engine light flashing, cruise control, and traction control light blinking can all come up due to engine performance issues. Contact your mechanic to proffer solutions to the problem. 

Final Words

To be precise, the flashing Subaru cruise control light shows there is a mechanical or electrical problem in your car. The cruise control light should be green and steady when you turn on the system. But if the light is flashing, turn off the cruise control until you address the problem.

If you are a DIYer, you can fix the issue yourself. But if you are not, contact your mechanic or dealership. The solution can be easy, quick, and quite affordable.

Osuagwu Solomon

Osuagwu Solomon is a certified mechanic with over a decade of experience in the mechanic garage, and he has over five years of experience in the writing industry. He started writing automotive articles to share his garage experience with car enthusiasts and armature mechanics. If he is not in the garage fixing challenging mechanical problems, he is writing automotive repair guides, buyer’s guides, and car and tools comparisons.

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2006 Subaru Outback Check Engine Light Cruise Control Flashing

Last updated on July 16th, 2023 at 02:59 pm

Is your 2006 Subaru outback check engine light cruise control flashing?  This article guides you all the way to fixing your Subaru flashing and blinking light issues and what to if when you notice Subaru outback cruise control light flashing.

Subaru, a Japanese automobile manufacturer, is one of the largest automobile producers across the globe.

Most of Subaru’s vehicles are renowned for using boxer engine and are more than 1,500 ccs.

However, Subaru has grown an ill reputation for the numerous issues the vehicle develops.

The major areas that Subaru car owners and automobile enthusiasts have formed an ill reputation about the vehicle are:

• Check engine light is on and cruise control light is blinking on 2006 outback
• when Subaru outback cruise control light flashing constantly
• Subaru head gasket problem and
• 2006 Subaru outback check engine light cruise control flashing

related: Subaru Outback Modified Ideas (How to) + Aftermarket Accessories

These complaints have created a dent and a stain on the remarkable record of Subaru Company, a company that was mostly known for manufacturing first-class vehicles, until now.

Read Also: Can You Mix Power Steering Fluid WITH TRANSMISSION fluid and Why is My Check Engine Light Flashing And Car Shaking

2006 Subaru outback check engine light and cruise control light blinking

Most Subaru car owners have complained that the car automatically stops accelerating when they are on a major highway. It could have been the pedal assembly and sensors that failed.This usually occurs in cold weather . This is extremely dangerous as it could have led to the loss of lives.

Subaru would have to address this design flaw that even affects the owners financially too, as they would have to pay regular visits to auto mechanics. Subaru vehicle may lose power at high speed, a problem that most people have complained over.

 Subaru would have to recall this vehicle for such a safety concern. It is expected for a reputable company like Subaru to stand behind this dangerous flaw with their product and fix the design problem.

The issue is why Subaru has chosen to do nothing about the numerous complaints from the vehicle owners who patronize their product. Most people have vowed never to buy a Subaru again since the vehicle has several problems and are asking for the product to be recalled before it leads to loss of lives.

Have you ever been driving a Subaru along a major highway and the check engine light comes on and cruise control light flashes? This may cause you to immediately lose acceleration and to pull over. A Subaru owner complained of having this same issue.

He waited for a few minutes before restarting the car. He noted that the lights still remained on even though the car was on normal acceleration. The check engine light can come up for a lot of reasons, so there is really no way of confirming if it’s for a loose gas cap or a more serious problem without a code scan.

In 2005 Subaru designed the car in such a way that the Cruise light flashes and disables the cruise control to get your attention.

When the light is on steady and there is no ostensible change in the way your Subaru is performing its most likely passable to drive.

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• Subaru Engine Oil Guide: 5 Best oil brand for Subaru
• 5 reasons for:  Subaru Outback Flashing Brake Light & How to Fix It
• Can I Drive My Car With Engine Management Light On

However, you’ll need to contact a professional auto mechanic to look into it.

If the check engine light starts flashing, that could be a warning that the engine is misfiring and really should not be driven, but rather should be towed to a repair facility.

It may be helpful to purchase a Code Scanner and keep in your glove box for just these type of circumstances.

Also, there could be an updated software related to the code and perhaps a TSB. So, you may have to call a Subaru Specialist nearest to you.

It necessitates a Subaru Select Monitor device to upload new software once it has been confirmed it can rectify the issue.

It could also be that the vent solenoid has an issue or the charcoal canister is full.

Though cleaning the sensor may or may not help fix the problem, you may need to have an experienced technician to perform a proper diagnosis.

This is a common symptom and each situation is different, so only testing is required.

In some cases, people who have reported that their Subaru suddenly stops accelerating said they have taken the car to different mechanics and the problem still persisted.

All the mechanics did was to reboot the computer, and for a fee, claiming they couldn’t identify a problem.

Another Subaru owner said he’ll stop in traffic and suddenly, the car will just start idling between 2500 and 3000 RPMs.

When peddle is pushed all the way down to the floor, it will shoot up extremely high mid-shift, causing him to stick to manual drive.

When the clutch is pushed down to shift to a higher gear, it will rev up to 2500 to 3000 RPMs mid-shift.

This acceleration problem can go on for years and necessitates regular visits to an auto shop every 3-4 months, which can be costly.

This issue may cause a Subaru car to drive with no acceleration and always in a “Limp home mode”.  This problem needs the attention of Subaru Company.

An identical problem reported in other complaints saw Subaru car running fine, then suddenly, there’s no response from the throttle, high revs in neutral and park, flashing cruise control and solid check engine lights.

This can really be a frightening situation.

 This has been a lingering problem for the last 30,000 miles.

The problem can just cause the check engine light to come on for no apparent reason and disabling the use of the cruise control. It is a sporadic problem with no solution.

You may be driving down the street and the accelerator will just give out. The engine may be running yet no thrust on the pedal.

Some persons may suspect it is a problem from the fuel injection.

In some cases, the gas pedal may be depressed and the car does not respond or move forward, it may idle and coasts forward and if the brake is depressed or put in park, the car engine revs, making it sound like the gas is depressed, but actually, it is not.

This problem normally occurs when the car is on and in the drive.

This problem has happened to some Subaru owners while driving at 85 mph, 40 mpg and after taking off from being stopped at a stop sign.

This issue can occur at any time while driving.

Related Article: Can You Mix Power Steering Fluid WITH TRANSMISSION fluid

You can be able to restart the car and get the gas pedal responsive, making it accelerate and surge the car forward.

• The short term solution is to:
•  Turn off the car
• Pull up on the gas cap release lever on the floor of the driver’s side
• Get out of the car
• Remove and reinstall the gas cap
• Get back in the car and start it
• The first attempt may fail, but the second attempt constantly works
• When the light is yellow, it means you can proceed with caution.
•  If there is a change in the vehicle performance, get it checked out immediately.
• If the Check Engine light flashes, then tow it in.
• The Cruise control light will normally flash on 05 and newer models. This doesn’t necessarily mean you need to tow it in.
• If you have a Scan Tool, scan it and send the code to your mechanic
• Contact your mechanic.

You may also want to watch the video below for more insight.

You may be driving normally and the car accelerator becomes unresponsive suddenly, causing you to pull to the roadside, put the car in park and restart the car.

You may find that the CEL and cruise light was on.

The accelerator may have acted normally after the restart but the following day when you try to start the car, you’ll discover there’s no CEL or flashing cruise light.

A code reader may indicate that it’s a code P2138, accelerator pedal sensor problem.

After some mileage, the probable cause of a Subaru losing power on acceleration is if the smoke sensor in the exhaust has failed and has to be replaced, the error should be cleared by car scanner.

If you don’t want to replace the sensor you can clean it. The sensor is located on the exhaust pipe but however, you still need to visit a car technician to clear the fault from the Subaru’s computer log.

Some people with a similar incident reported pulling out their battery cable for 10 minutes and all the lights went off.

Though whenever the check engine light comes on and the cruise light flashes, it is normal.

The check engine light will not come on with low fluid levels or if the temperature is too high.

The On-Board Diagnostics only sets a check engine light when the Electronic Control Module (ECM) reads a too high or a too low sensor value.

However, it may have to read that same fault 3 consecutive times in a row to turn on the check engine light.

Else your check engine light would always be going on and off.

Contact your mechanic to have them check the codes for free because a dealer will have to charge you labour for them to check due to the knowledge required to use the highly sophisticated scan tool they make use of.

So, you can either go to an autonomous shop or a dealer to check what the other scanner says is the fault. This way, the cost of repairs is reduced.

They may probably ask you if you fueled up just before the engine light came on, in which case, that would be code P0440: EVAP leak, which is quite a small leak.

This means that the fuel tank sensor doesn’t like how you placed the fuel cap on.

For a Subaru car, it recommends at least three (3) clicks when tightening your fuel cap.

However, until that code is checked you won’t know what the issue is with your vehicle.

If the issue ends up being a fuel cap leak, then just loosen the cap and put it back on and just make 1 full revolution, and just keep driving it.

The light should go off within 3 full warm-up cool-down cycles. 

All cars have problems. It is how the company deals with the problems that make a difference. 

Cars like Toyota and Infiniti have had recalls for accelerator pedal issues, but no recall has yet been made for Subaru.

This is a safety issue and the Company ought to do something about it.

All cars or vehicles do have faults, but it is how the company deals with the problems that make the difference. You might love to read the history of 2006 Subaru Outback Head Gasket Problems

The Symptoms of Subaru Head Gasket Problem

The signs of gasket failure will normally appear in a systematic order, one after the other:

• Oil trickling down between the head and block surfaces. The leakage will get bigger with time and may lead to coolant leaking.
• The odour of Sulphur or fuel from the coolant reservoir and you will also notice higher readings in the coolant temperature gauge.
• Frequent overheating of the engine during a long drive.

What is the Solution?

The problem of the Subaru head gasket can be resolved and repaired if it is detected on time. This early detection will solve the issue altogether. After the repair, a properly maintained vehicle can run for thousands of miles without any problem.

The things you can do to keep your Subaru in good condition:

• Try Changing Your Subaru car oil regularly.
• Make sure to clean your Subaru car battery surroundings and the terminals on a more frequent rate to move accumulated rust and corrosion.
• Always check your Subaru car coolant cylinder and try to change fluid when it is due to change or dirty.
• Make sure to only use/hire an experienced Subaru mechanic who is specialized in Subaru models or at least is knowable on Subaru vehicles.

  We have already covered a full details article for the solution to Subaru head gasket issues please read it here for all what you need to do.

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2010 Subaru Outback Check Engine Light, Cruise Control, Parking Brake, and Vehicle Dynamic Control Warning

The Check Engine Light and Vehicle Dynamic Control Lights are solid. The Parking brake and Cruise Control lights are blinking. I took it to AutoZone this morning to get the codes and read and the following codes came back:

P2096 Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System - Too Lean (Bank 1) C0057 Engine System C0025 RR Wheel Sensor Open C0042 Power Supply Voltage Low

As far as possible issues / symptoms: I believe one of the wheel bearings needs to be replaced. I have heard a cyclical humming noise from the car that increases in frequency as I accelerate. My fuel economy has also decreased over the past 3 months from an average of 26.7mpg to 25.2mpg. This could be due to driving habits. I have recently topped off my tires as I thought that was the issue.

If anyone has had a similar issue, or has experience with these problems please let me know.

Two weeks ago I bought a new 2012 Outback. While driving in the manual auto mode, the cruise started flashing, the check engine came on, the traction control light came on and the brake light was on. The dealer said it was because I did not tighten the gas cap, letting air in. They reset it but a few days later it came back on again and this time they said it was miss fire code. Since they couldn’t figure out the issue, they did the right thing and traded it in for another, identical 2012 Outback. Now, 8 days later, all the same lights have come on. Anyone experience any of these issues before? Any suggestions on what to do? Thanks.

You apparently have a 4-cylinder “Partial Zero Emissions” model. On this particular model, if the OBD system detects a problem with the Evaporative Emissions System, all of the warning lights that you mentioned will light up, and the traction control will be disabled.

However, the fix is actually quite easy if the service department is competent and up to date–which your service department may not be. The sequence for fixing it is as follows:

• Remove and tighten the gas filler cap. Then, make sure that you drive the car through at least 3 drive cycles (start engine, drive several miles, shut engine off) in order for the system to reset. Henceforth, make sure that the gas cap is properly tightened until it clicks. (It sounds like this has already been done, however)
• If #1 does not work, a new gas cap may be needed, as a result of a defective gasket on the cap.
• If #2 does not work, then the dealership should update the software of the car’s engine management system. The software patch for this specific problem is # WVU-31 .

I suggest that you print this information, and show it to the service manager–NOT to the “service writer” at the desk.

In most cases P2096; Post catalyst fuel trim too lean is caused by a failing bank 1 downstream oxygen sensor.

Sounds like to the dealer for a new gas cap and maybe O2 sensor. Shotgun approach but not all that expensive.

Pretty good chance all of those warning lights are being caused by one problem. The VDC and Cruise Control systems are probably being turned off automatically, and those warning lights are just telling you they are off.

The problem might be simply the problematic wheel speed sensor. That’s probably used by the braking system, and when the braking system isn’t working correctly the VDC and Cruise control functions aren’t allowed to operate. Suggest to focus your shop on getting that problem corrected first. The wheel speed sensor is probably part of the wheel bearing ass’y, and it sounds like the bearing may have to be replaced anyway.

The power supply low and engine system codes might be the same problem. First step, ask your shop do a standard battery/alternator voltage test. If those test ok, you’ll probably need some auto-electric tech-help expertise to figure out what the problem is. Have you had any work done involving the engine compartment lately? If so, that’s the first suspect for this sort of problem.

The too-lean fuel trim problem is probably the last priority. As mentioned above, that could just be a failing O2 sensor or its connector, and unlikely related to the rest of the problems.

+1 Subarus–by design–will illuminate EVERY warning light if the CEL is activated. This is apparently because all too many people will blithely drive along for weeks, months, or maybe even years with a lit-up CEL (thinking that it is something “normal”), but they will likely be more concerned if every light on the instrument panel starts glowing.

The bottom line is that the OP needs to find out what sort of engine or emissions problem caused the CEL to go on, and when that problem is remedied, all of the warning lights will self-extinguish.

One of the codes indicates low voltage in one system. It wouldn’t hurt to check battery voltage while the motor is running.

Would you not be getting the alternator output while the engine is running?

With the symptoms, it is necessary to be sure the battery and charging system are working properly. This includes battery cables and connections. Many times once the battery and charging system are brought up to standards the problems are fixed. But either way a proper diagnosis on electrical issues can’t start until the battery and charging systems are

A common ABS fault, it indicates the battery voltage was low at one time, could have been a year ago when listening to the radio with the engine off.

Focus on the PCM exhaust fault.

Bad wheel bearing and open wheel speed sensor. You need to have he RR wheel hub replaced ASAP. When the wheel bearing wears down to the point that it is about to go into a serious (sometimes uncontrollable) wobble, it hits the wheel speed sensor and takes it out.

You should replace both rear hubs at the same time, they usually go out within a short period of time together. The extra friction would also reduce your fuel economy.

You may have other issues but this should be top priority. BTW, rear wheel bearings on Subarus are notorious for wearing out early.

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• Subaru Cars
• Subaru Outback

Brake, check engine, cruise control lights blinking

• Thread starter tolima1
• Start date May 5, 2022
• May 5, 2022

In my outback 2013, the brake, check engine, and cruise control light started blinking after changing the battery. So I took the car back to the place where the battery was replaced, and they told me that the problem was the catalytic converter ( code P0420) and had nothing to do with the battery? Before spending extra money on a repair that could not be necessary, any ideas? Thanks  

• May 7, 2022

I am not making any assumptions here, but did you recently get fuel? Forgetting to get the cap tight CAN cause all those indications Could also be (what I recently experienced in my 15 Forester, doing the same things, a small leak in a vacuum line. EVERYBODY wants to sell you a new converter - be wary. Have a suby shop check it too.  

• May 10, 2022

i have a 2009 impreza obs. that had that same code and lights. it is the catalytic converter. what i did was replace my o2 sensor first, and reset the computer (unplug battery). if the lights dont come back on, it was just the o2 sensor. if they come back on, replace the cat and reset the computer again and your issue is fixed. i did both myself, very easy fix just a few bolts. hope this helps!  

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• 🧰 Crosstrek / XV Technical Forums
• Dealer Service, Maintenance, and Warranty Issues

Check engine warning light and flashing cruise control icon

• Add to quote

My 2015 Crosstrek has less than 1500k on it.......what the freaking hell does this warning mean? All it says in the owner's manual is to avoid driving at high speeds and get your vehicle into a Subaru dealership ASAP  

Pattyboy said: All it says in the owners manual is to avoid driving at high speeds and get your vehicle into a Subaru dealership ASAP Click to expand...

Hey pal, we had that same issue on our cross country expedition with only 15k on the car and it ended up being the Oil Control Valve. Apparently they swapped them ( they made it seem like there is only 2 ) from side to side and the issue fixed its self. Over 15k miles later and its working just fine.  

Had the same issue. Cel, flashing cruise control icon and awd icon came on and then disappeared two days later. Took it to the dealer... Computer error code P000b showed up... They replaced the oil control valve and bank 1 exhaust OSV...we'll see if it that works. Car only has 2500 miles..  

I am having a similar issue. I have my ABS, Traction Control and Hill Assist light on (stay on) and the car will not come out of park (unless I use the manual override) and cruise is disabled. In addition, the AT OIL TEMP light flashes after driving for a while along with the Cruise indicator light. Does any one know what this issue is or how they fixed it?  

This means the brake light switch needs replaced  

For anyone reading my reply, I just received the Check engine warning light and flashing cruise control icon, today, my 2014 XV is at 45k now. What should I do? Its Thanksgiving holiday in Canada and Subaru is closed till Tuesday. When my XV was at 35k, engine overheated and one of the cylinder head popped. Why is this car getting so much issues.  

As a guy stated earlier until you get off you wallet and pick up a code reader your just looking at idiot lights on your dash and posting that on a forum. Once you know what is causing the alarm then you can start fixing the problem.  

Had check engine light (steady, not flashing) & flashing cruise control light come on yesterday. 2015 limited CVT with 26K miles. Started/stopped/started multiple times & would not go off. This afternoon started with remote start & lights still on. Got out & checked gas cap but it was tight & wouldn't have been the problem anyway since lights came on before filling up yesterday. Then I put it in reverse, lurched back a little, then died. Of course I laughed & said sh.., forgot to put key in ignition. So restarted & back to normal. Check engine & cruise lights are out. Damn I'm a good mechanic! I'll keep an eye on it.  

Yesterday after loading up with groceries and starting home we got these: At Oil Temp, Traction Control, Hill Start Assist, Eyesight disabled and probably more. Called the dealer and they told us we should be good to drive it in. We did and we quickly got our groceries transferred to a loaner Desert Khaki XV and got them home. While I'm not thrilled about our three month old car giving all these warning lights, I do have to hand it to our dealer getting right on it and getting us home safely through the snow. I'll update as I'm given info.  

Did this get resolved? I've got the same thing.  

less than 300km! Bought brand new Crosstrek 2016 two days ago. Now Check engine =flash cruise. Tried to play with a gas cap with no luck. But after driving few dozen km it's gone. Any ideas? Thanks.  

mine did the same thing, and lights dissapeared after a day. i got a p013e code from obd  

Well, a lot of people seem to be reporting variations of lights coming on, some with potential solutions, and others, well... unknown. Two things comes to mind: (1) Have any of you been playing with your own OBD data readers? Some (Bluetooth) dongles have seem to triggered errors that trigger some of these lights. (2) If you're unsure, and haven't been using your own OBD dongles, I'd get it checked by a mechanic. Different combinations of lights illuminating does not always mean what the lights indicate... I've also noticed many of the posters in this thread have posted 1-2 posts on these forums, so... :welcome: Welcome to the forum!  

I've had a cel light several times, every time it has been for a crank position sensor. Subaru seems to think that changing the oil is the fix.....so they change the oil every time. Still have issues now and again. Not sure what to think  

mine happen @ 19200, brought to the dealership, according to them bad signal to the throttle body, need to be ordered and replace. Good thing i have the extended warranty to cover everything, plus a rental. fine with me  

FWIW, this is a very old thread and none of the posters have been active here in years so I don't think you'll get any replies. Let us know what the dealer says.  

I had this happen to my 2016 crosstrek and the code was reading P0300, random misfire. The guy at the auto parts store recommended changing the spark plugs as a starting place. I cleared the code and the lights went out for now.  

mine did the exact same, i have 2016 crosstrek 24k miles  

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check engine light on and cruise control blinking

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I have a 2007 Subaru outback . The check engine light is on and cruise control is blinking. I took it to advance to have them read it. It came up that the gas cap was loose when we checked it it wasn't. It went off for the rest of the day and the next day it came back on and when coming to a stop or at least under 15 MPH it starts sputtering acting like it wants to die but doesn't. Also when I push the gas the air blows out cool and when pushing the break it no longer does that. It blows out hot as If the AC wasn't on. Talking to advance and Subaru over the phone they say it sounds like a vacuum hose and asked on yahoo answers someone said something about taking it down to an oil change place and for $20 have them clean out some things? Not really sure what's your opinion?  

First, there isn't a code for a gas cap on a Subaru. There are EVAP issue related codes that could lead to a vacuum leak issue at the engine. Ignore Yahoo Answers. Nut cases hang out there and give bad advise. What are the code numbers? Or is there just one? The AC and the temperature control is electric. No vacuum controlled doors under the dash. It is more likely associated only with engine rpm. On the fuel pedal, rpm is high, on the brake, rpm is low. So that's where we start in finding the issue. Once I know what the codes are so the possibilities are reduced.  

Also, XT or Outback? Auto or manual AC? How many miles? Any aftermarket additions?  

It is an automatic 4 wheel drive it has the sport option. Its a legacy. Idk the code he pulled up he just said its reading that the gas cap is loose so we tightened it up made sure it wasn't loose he reset it the engine light went off the started again a little bit later and that's when the sputtering started. And I looked back at the yahoo answers response the Guy say it sounded like a dirty air idle and the throttle bottle to have those things cleaned and like I said Subaru and advance said it sounded like a vacuum leak somewhere. The only thing I can think of that's been different is the other day we jump started aother car and the place I got gas at was said to have air in it supposedly but all that ggas is ran out by now. And miles is about 182,000  

Next time you have the codes read at a parts store, don't let them clear it. Forget the vacuum leak, gas cap, yahoo for now. Is the light on now? If so, get the codes read and post the numbers. If not, start with these: Check the battery output. If the voltage is low, or if you can have Advance check the amperage output and its low, get another battery while your there. Clean the battery cables. Check all the black layered wires on the car that bolt to the fenders, firewall and intake manifold for corrosion or cruddy looking. Clean them and reattach tightly. Don't go so tight it brakes. Just really snug. After this, you can drive it and see if the problem persist. Or, if the CEL comes on, read the codes and post them. Don't clear the codes!!!!!!  

What year, what engine....the codes mean everything  

The other day when we jump started the other car the battery had corrosion on it would this be the problem?  

Yes. Anything that prevents electron flow will cause a problem. If the measured voltage is below 12.3 or lower, or 13 or above with the engine off, the battery is bad. If its 3 years or older, that is probably the problem. Things like this that are sporadic in nature and involve issues with different electrical parts, start at the battery. Also check the alternator, but it is most likely okay.  

So the battery being bad and or corroded could be causing it to sputter at stops or going lower than 15 MPH? I will run the car to auto zone or somewhere tomorrow if I get tthe chance... I also have a Thunderbird that has a brand new battery in it could I use that battery or do I need to buy a specific one?  

It has to be the correct size (measured case and CCA output) for all the computer controls and actuators. Don't get an Auto Zone battery. They're junk. If the T-Bird battery is new and the correct size for the Subaru, then you can use it. You will still need to clean the cables. That corrosion on the cables is due to acid extrusion from the battery due to bad seals. With this generation, the throttle is controlled with an electric motor, the injectors are electric, all the sensors, transmission solenoids for shifting, stereo, CC, lighting, etc. A lot of things sucking up electricity. When available electricity is low, these things can't operate properly. ESPECIALLY the auto transmission, which is the first thing to fail due to lack of proper amperes. Think of your laptop with a low battery. Everything slows down or doesn't work proper. Same with the car.  

Maintenance free battery.....you get what you pay for in a new one  

I hadn't thought of until this morning, but when the codes are cleared on this generation with the electronic throttle, no IACV VALVE, the computer has to learn the throttle. Next time you reconnect the battery, when you start it, let idle for about five minutes to "learn".  

Just took it to auto zone and it read different. This is what came up. idle control system Rpm lower than expected probable cause -large vacuum leak -fuel system concern -dirty throttle body -faulty IAC valve  

Just took it to auto zone and it read different. This is what came up. idle control system Rpm lower than expected probable cause -large vacuum leak Do you hear any whistling under the hood? -fuel system concernFuel filter is in the tank and the pump is iffy. -dirty throttle bodyPossible. Carbon build up will effect the plate measurement sent to the ECM. -faulty IAC valve There's no IACV valve. The idle is controlled by the electronic throttle. Same motor that opens and closes it when you are on/off the accelerator. Did you have them check the battery? Cables? Again, poor electrical conductance will cause issues. You need to start with a proper check of the battery and work from there.  

No I tried but they all just told me the battery wouldn't cause that problem. If this helps any we did jump start another car the other day. Also could it be air in the gas? The place I got gas at the other day has been known to have air in the gas lately that it is bad and I filled up there the other day a mechanic told me to see if the car had a valve like the tired do by the motor to try and bleed out the air but I'm not sure that there is one he said there might not be and it doesn't look like it. And no I don't hear a whistling.  

The store provided some generic information, exemplified by the inclusion of the IACV which the 2007 does not have. It would have been better if they provided the actual trouble code (or codes) which, for the engine, is in the form of a letter ("P") followed by four numbers, from zero to nine (P####). However, in the absence of the actual code (DTC), the description provided appears to be: DTC P0506 IDLE AIR CONTROL SYSTEM RPM LOWER THAN EXPECTED FSM suggests checking for other DTC's (were there any?), checking the engine air filter for clogging (could that have been involved in the first CEL situation that had something to do with the evap control system?), and checking the electronic throttle control mechanism. But there could be other causes. For example, as cardoc suggested, perhaps when the car was being used to start another car, and the cables were being connected, a vacuum hose was pulled off. Air in the gas? That's unusual, and unless the gas has been turned into some sort of foam, any air bubbles in the fuel (think of what happens when it splashes into the tank during filling) will naturally rise to the top and be released. Valve like a tire valve? There is a valve that is sort of like a tire valve in the engine area; it's part of the air conditioning system. If you let the gas out, your air conditioning will not work. Whoever told you about air in the gas and letting it out using the tire valve was, in my opinion, badly and perhaps intentionally misleading you. I do wonder about the effect of jump starting the other car. If so, this can sometimes lead to odd symptoms. Hooking up jumper cables to a totally dead battery can suddenly bring down the system voltage in the running car enough to cause a glitch in the engine control software and other control modules. If the problem with the idling appeared after the other car was jumped, I'd consider this possibly.  

Yes that was the code P0509. The car we jump started was on Saturday it was completely dead and it started acting up on Wednesday. The bad gas we got on Monday .. I've been told multiple things gonna try and have someone look at it again this weekend. Was also told to put fuel injecter cleaner in it to see if that helps any. I am also overdue for a oil change  

Rule of thumb for jump starting..... Only jump off a car with similar displacement. That works both ways. You do not want a 400 cu. in. engine to jump you off. The power coming from the big motor will blow your ECU out of the water. Do not try to jump off a larger motor than yours. Using the same 400 as an example, the amount of power the other engine requires to start will probably stall your car, and if you are lucky, that is all that will happen. Dude, cardoc is trying to help you, now PlainOM, and lowly me. The 2 folks ahead of me are extremely well versed in Subaru. WE CANNOT HELP YOU WITHOUT THE ACTUAL NUMBERS OF THE CODES THE SCANNERS ARE SAYING. UNDERSTAND????!  

Along with receiving bad advise from the "mechanic", stay away from that one, you are also getting it from Auto Zone. The mechanic is either really ignorant or he's trying to make you cause another issue and the part store doesn't know what they are talking about. That battery is the heart of the electrical system on the car. It's ability to provide proper ampere flow or not determines how all the electrical components work or not. Think of it this way. You have a low battery and you turn the key on and try to roll down a window. The window moves a lot slower than it should. The motor does not have ample amperes to function at a normal speed. Same with the throttle. It has a motor that controls the position of the throttle plate. This plate opening determines how much air gets into the engine. If the ECM sends electrity to the motor, but the amount needed to run the motor is not there, the plate moves slow or not at all. Just because the battery allowed you to jump a car on Saturday, it doesn't mean a cell didn't take a nose dive by Wednesday. Especially if its an Auto Zone battery or an aged one. (Which I believe to be the case with a lot of their batteries on the shelf.) Check the ampere output of the battery. Clean the throttle plate. CRC electronic throttle body cleaner and an extrememly soft toothbrush works good. You can also use Sea Foam spray. It would be odd that you would have an EVAP issue and idle issues that are not associated by the same problem. You either have a low battery, vacuum leak or fuel supply issue. A dirty throttle body will cause idle issues but not the EVAP code. It would be nice to know what that "loose gas cap code" was, but its gone with a summer storm. Another thing to think about, if you have a broken bone that may need surgery to reset it, which would you go to? A 10 yr old Boy Scout who has his first aid badge, or the surgeon that's been cutting people open for 20+ years?  

Went and bought some fuel injector cleaner to put in it now the cruise light stopped blink engine light is off and its stopped sputtering at stops though the rpms are still lower than normal. It may just need time  

Right on cardoc! I had the same problem with my 2007 Outback, i.e. sputtering at low speeds, CEL and Cruise lights blinking. That's how I found this discussion thread. Never thought it could be the battery, which turns out to be the original battery. I always assumed a battery problem manifests exclusively as a car that wont start. I replaced the battery and all of the above symptoms went away. Additionally, my AC seems colder than ever! Thanks!  

I know this is an old thread but I have just had the condition and looked back at this thread for solutions. Thanks to all, especially Cardoc.  

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