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Granada: the complete guide
Published in the April issue of The Sunday Times Travel Magazine
Few cities in Spain come with a spectacle as iconic as the Alhambra. Floodlit high on its dark hill by night, it floats above Granada like an enchanted palace.
In the soft light of early morning or the warm glow of sunset, it is just as mesmerising. Step inside and it is even more so, especially in spring when the gardens bloom and visitors are fewer.
And it makes the perfect introduction to a place spiced with complex history: an emirate ruled from Damascus; capital of the extravagant Nasrid kings (Spain’s last Muslim dynasty); and prize of the 1492 Catholic Reconquest.
In the narrow cobbled streets of the Albaicín – the old Moorish quarter
The New York Times
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By ANDREW FERREN AUG. 10, 2017
Beyond the magnificent Moorish Alhambra, visitors will find a distinctive cuisine and a charming city that was once home to celebrated writers and artists. Related Article
Like Agra, India, and the Taj Mahal, the Andalusian city of Granada in southern Spain is so well known for a single monument — the Alhambra, a walled fortress housing magnificent 13th- to 15th-century Moorish palaces and gardens — that the city itself is sometimes overlooked. With more than two million visitors descending on the Alhambra, a Unesco World Heritage site, every year, the city’s tourism industry had settled into a somewhat formulaic routine of shuttling visitors in and out of the city in about 24 hours. But recently some other ancient structures have been restored, and the region’s distinctive gastronomy has come into its own. The city that was home to the poet Federico García Lorca, the painter José Guerrero and the composer Manuel de Falla has deep cultural roots, but now a new crop of small foundations and independent exhibition spaces has revived its arty buzz. Let the Alhambra wait a bit while getting seduced by the city that has grown up around it.
Explore the map and find things to do in Granada.
1) 5 P.M. Lofty Foundations
Nestled into the same hill as the Alhambra and with the same sweeping views over the red-tile roofs and elegant domes of Granada is the Rodríguez-Acosta Foundation (5 euros, about $6). José María Rodríguez-Acosta (1878-1941), an accomplished painter of vibrant and moody Andalusian subjects, essentially gave up painting from 1916 to 1930 to create his greatest masterpiece, the stunning Art Deco studio that is now home to the foundation. Spread over five levels on the steeply pitched slope with stepped gardens, the foundation also houses the collection of the art historian Manuel Gómez-Moreno, including works ranging from pre-Roman Iberian tribes to early 20th-century masters like Joaquín Sorolla. Nearby is the Manuel de Falla House Museum (3 euros), where the celebrated Andalusian composer lived from 1921 to 1939.
2) 8 P.M. Dinner at Sunset
Before entering the plush-and-perfumed realm of the Nasrid rulers in the Alhambra, see how the other half lived with a stroll through the Albaicín, the ancient Moorish neighborhood of whitewashed houses climbing the hill on the other side of the Darro River. The winding streets are packed with fine restaurants with fine views, but the fun and unfussy Bar Kiki San Nicolás, with tables spread across the plaza, offers the views and the stars, and a huge array of tapas and main courses highlighting local products and preparations. If you’re lucky, you’ll also get an impromptu guitar concert in an atmosphere scented with jasmine — and perhaps the occasional whiff of hashish. Dinner for two, about 65 euros.
3) 10 P.M. Moonlit Moorish Magic
A visit to the Alhambra can now be split in two with an evening visit to either the splendid Nasrid Palaces or the lush Generalife gardens, preceding or following a daytime visit to the ramparts, museum and gardens. (The two evening tours take place at the same time, so seeing both would require returning a second night with a separate ticket.) The palaces feature room after room of intricate tile mosaic walls, delicate plaster reliefs and elaborate coffered ceilings linked by gleaming marble patios with gurgling fountains and lush gardens. Set apart on an adjacent outcropping, the Generalife gardens were the pleasure zone of the Nasrid rulers and have been a reference for garden designers for centuries. Tickets for each are 9.40 euros, including a 1.40-euro service charge for advance purchase with credit card. Book well ahead.
4) 9 A.M. Breakfast Goal
Join the locals for a breakfast of thick Spanish hot chocolate ideal for dipping crisply fried dough called churros (5 euros) at Café Fútbol . Opened in 1903, the cafe has a spacious outdoor seating area that stays busy all day long, so circle back for some house-made ice cream. Bernabeu, the friendly gentleman who makes it, recommends a scoop of the dense almond-rich turrón flavor (1 euro).
5) 10:30 A.M. Back to the Palace
Now for the daytime Alhambra visit. Taken as a whole, the complex is perhaps the most emblematic vestige of the highly refined and astonishingly luxurious lifestyle achieved by the Moorish rulers in medieval Spain. Tickets range from 7 to 21 euros. If you want to include the Nasrid palaces, note that visitors are given a specific time for entry.
6) 2 P.M. There is a Free Lunch
Granada is one of the last cities in Spain where tapas are served free with alcohol. So belly up to the bar — or better yet, find a table on the terrace — at Cunini , the city’s gold standard for seafood for more than 70 years. With each 2- to 3-euro refill of wine, another plate of free food arrives, quickly adding up to a full and satisfying meal that might start with tuna-flecked potato salad and move on to crispy croquetas de jamón. An individual pot of rice cooked with mussels and several varieties of tiny clams or rings of fried calamari may follow, along with lightly battered monkfish. Dessert is on you.
7) 4 P.M. Divide and Conquer
After the conquest of Granada in 1492, the area just below the Alhambra and Albaicín became the stage for the display of Christian architectural might. The area is easily walked, with lots of history to see between the cafes and tearooms, ceramics shops and guitar makers that lend an extra bit of local color. Worth stepping into is the Cathedral (5 euros), which blends Renaissance, plateresque and Baroque architectural styles, and the late-Gothic Royal Chapel (4 euros), built between 1505 and 1516 to house the tomb of Ferdinand and Isabella. Worthwhile sites of more recent vintage include the Centro José Guerrero (free), devoted to the work of this seminal 20th-century Spanish painter, and the new Centro Federico Garcia Lorca , which organizes exhibitions on subjects related to the life of the city’s most beloved modern poet and author.
8) 9 P.M. Fabled Feast
In a city where tapas are famously free and dinner can be had for the price of a few glasses of wine, it’s been hard to get much traction for the alta cocina (haute cuisine) trend that swept Spain and the world in the past decades. The chef Ismael Delgado López is trying to fix that at La Fábula , in the Hotel Villa Oniria. The very formal service feels a little forced in groovy Granada, but the food does not disappoint. A 10- to 12-course chef’s menu might start with “gazpacho water and steamed brioche,” and end with local cheeses and three decadent desserts (75 euros, or 90 euros with wine pairings).
9) 10:30 P.M. Dancing Shoes
The classic Granada experience has always included a late-night flamenco performance in the “caves” of the Sacromonte hill beyond the Albaicín. Venta El Gallo has a reliable roster of performers and draws the occasional star as well. Admission for performances starts at 26 euros; on some nights one-hour flamenco classes are offered for an additional price.
10) 10:30 A.M. Literary Breakfast
Named after the British author Gerald Brenan’s book about his life in an Andalusian village, Al Sur de Granada is among the best places in the city to snap up delicious souvenirs. The shelves are lined with organic wines and olive oils, local honey and jam, craft beers and traditional almond-based sweets made in nearby convents. Breakfasts are simple, delicious and fortifying: yogurt and homemade muesli or toasted peasant bread rubbed with tomato, drizzled with fragrant olive oil and topped with succulent slices of jamón Ibérico.
11) 11:30 A.M. Poetry Garden
Surrounded by a lovely park, La Huerta de San Vicente has become a mythic place for many residents. Huerta means orchard or garden, and the property — the family summer home of Federico García Lorca — was originally far outside the city limits. The house features both quotidian items and artworks made by the poet’s artist friends, like Salvador Dalí. The 45-minute guided tours offer a glimpse into the place the writer himself called “the poetry factory” for a remarkably productive period between 1926 and 1936. Admission is 3 euros.
12) 1 P.M. Wash It All Away
Hammams, or bathhouses, were an essential part of daily life in Moorish Al Andalus, and they are making a comeback in Granada after being banned in the mid-16th century by the Christian kings. Hammam Al Andalus offers 90-minute sessions that start with the basic “water tour” (30 euros), which involves moving between hot and cold baths. Massages and other treatments can raise the price to a potential 115 euros, which includes an hourlong massage. Reservations required.
Parador de Granada is part of the state-run Parador chain of hotels in historic buildings. It is the only hotel allowed to operate inside the Alhambra. Set in a former Catholic monastery that replaced a Nasrid palace, the four-star hotel has 40 rooms with charming Andalusian décor and a beautiful terrace for drinks or dining. Doubles in the last half of August range from 305 to 395 euros.
Palacio de Mariana Pineda is at the edge of the Albaicín and overlooks the river and the Alhambra. This antiques-filled five-room hotel serves a daily afternoon tea that lures guests back to restore themselves in the cool shade of its patios. Doubles in summer from 121 euros.
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This Sunny Spanish City Is Known for Amazing Tapas and a ‘Magical Vibe’ — and It Won’t Break the Bank
Here's everything you need to know to plan a perfect trip to Granada, Spain.
- Best Hotels & Resorts
- Best Things to Do
Best Restaurants
Best time to visit, how to get there, how to get around.
Rory Fuller/Travel + Leisure
Granada is about as captivating a city as they come. The city, tucked at the base of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in Spain's Andalusia region, is filled with more historic charm than perhaps one place deserves. Here, travelers can walk through winding cobblestone streets, drink in views of Moorish architecture, and stroll through buildings dating back to the 14th century, all within the span of an afternoon.
"Granada is a gem filled with history, culture, and stunning scenery," Tim Hentschel, the CEO and co-founder of HotelPlanner , shares with Travel + Leisure . "Granada is also known for its delicious cuisine, particularly its tapas culture. You can enjoy various mouthwatering dishes while exploring the city's vibrant culinary scene. And what is especially remarkable is that Granada doesn't break the bank like other big Spanish cities, but it still oozes authentic charm. The locals are friendly, the vibe is lively, and your wallet stays happy without missing out on that classic Spanish charm."
And, as Alicia Benito, a Spanish language and culture specialist at Promova , notes, it's a place where you really can kick up your heels, too.
"It's like the perfect mix of history, amazing sights, and a very lively culture. Also, the people there really know how to live," Benito says. "There are cool street markets everywhere, cozy tapas bars on every corner, and passionate flamenco shows in Sacromonte. It's just got this magical vibe that grabs you and doesn't let go."
Not only that, but Granada is also a destination that experiences some 3,000 hours of sunshine a year , practically ensuring at least one beautiful day while you're there. Here's how to plan the perfect trip to Granada.
Top 5 Can’t Miss
Stay in a former monastery when you book a room at Parador de Granada.
Explore the stunning Alhambra.
See a zambra flamenco show in Sacromonte.
Go for a tapas and wine crawl around the city’s best bars and restaurants.
Visit in the spring or fall for beautiful weather and fewer crowds.
Best Hotels & Resorts
Hospes palacio de los patos.
Hospes Palacio de los Patos is the perfect representation of Granada. It's a 19th-century palace turned modern retreat located in the heart of the city. Here, guests can unwind in stately rooms with soaring ceilings and royal-ready beds, relax in the Bodyna Spa, or dine on local dishes — including plenty of tapas — on its outdoor terrace.
Parador de Granada
Courtesy of Parador de Granada
Sleep amid history at Parador de Granada , located within Alhambra's grounds. The former monastery has been transformed into an inviting escape with rooms overlooking the Generalife's lush gardens. It's a modest accommodation, but one that is ideal for those looking for a quieter stay and access to utmost tranquility.
Hotel Casa 1800 Granada
Courtesy of Hotel Casa 1800
Pining for even more history? Then book a stay at Hotel Casa 1800 Granada . As the name implies, the hotel was once a private home, built in the late 16th century, and it maintains much of its charm — including the original facade. Every room here is unique, but all offer historical touches, including original balconies, shutters, and frescos.
Carmen de la Alcubilla del Caracol
Get a room with a view at Carmen de la Alcubilla del Caracol . The boutique hotel's privileged position atop a hill provides spectacular views from every window of both the Alhambra and the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Spring for a room with a terrace for an unforgettable stay.
Best Things to Do
Rory Fuller/Travel + Leisure
Explore the Alhambra.
We're not sure it's possible to visit Granada without visiting the Alhambra , often regarded as a masterpiece of Islamic architecture and art. "The number one must-see is definitely the Alhambra palace," Benito shares. "It's like the crown jewel of Granada, with its amazing Islamic architecture and beautiful gardens. You can spend hours exploring the different palaces and courtyards, and the views from up there are incredible."
Visit the Granada Cathedral.
The Granada Cathedral , also known as the Cathedral of the Incarnation, is a stunning Roman Catholic church dating back to the 16th century. Outside, travelers can spend hours looking at its imposing arches and pillars, while inside, they'll be in awe of the spectacular dome and frescos lining the walls. Guests can come to worship or go on a cultural tour to learn more about its fascinating history.
See a flamenco show in Sacromonte.
Immerse yourself in local culture with a flamenco show in Granada's historic Sacromonte district . Here, you'll find a unique form of flamenco known as zambra, passed down for generations. It's emotional and rhythmic, and it will leave you fully inspired.
Check out the Parque de las Ciencias.
Have a day filled with fun and science with a visit to the Parque de las Ciencias . Here, guests can learn about everything from the human body to the outer edges of space all in one afternoon. Don't miss the outdoor astronomy garden, where you can play with all the observation instruments.
Stroll through the Albaicín.
"If you're into history and culture, don't miss wandering around the Albaicín neighborhood, where you feel like stepping back in time with all these narrow streets and cool Moorish architecture," Benito says. Indeed, the neighborhood is known as Granada's oldest and most traditional neighborhood. The historic Moorish quarter is a melting pot of cultural influences, including Iberians, Greeks, Romans, and Visigoths, who have all passed through these streets, just like you.
Bjoern Bremer/Getty Images
Bodegas Castañeda
Find a traditional atmosphere matched by a traditional tapas menu at Bodegas Castañeda . Go for one of its famous platters that come with a taste of everything, including its tabla fria , with two croquettes, a Russian salad, tortilla española (a potato omelet), ham, cheese, and chicken. They offer plenty of wines by the glass, but make sure to check out the Wine of the Week menu for something special.
Bar Los Diamantes
Famed for its fried fish tapas, Bar Los Diamantes is a hit among both locals and tourists alike. Yes, it's crowded, but that's because it's just that good. There are several locations around the city, but no matter which one you visit, you'll be delighted by the fried prawns, calamari, or daily specials.
La Sitarilla
La Sitarilla , a family-run restaurant, is one more spot where you can find plenty of traditional bites. Go ahead, get the pig feet. But also get the meatballs, the fries, or whatever else is offered to you alongside each beer or wine you order.
According to Benito, the best time to visit Granada "really depends on what you're looking for. But generally speaking, spring and autumn are probably the best bet." That, Benito says, is when the weather is at its best, as it's not too hot nor too cold, and the crowds are at their thinnest, allowing you to explore more and wait in line less. "But honestly, Granada is beautiful year-round, so whenever you go, you're going to have an amazing time," Benito adds.
Spring also offers travelers the chance to take part in festivals like the Cruces de Mayo , celebrated on the third of May. And in the fall, guests can swing by the Granada Film Festival to check out the latest cinematic talents or visit all September long to honor Virgen de las Angustias , the patron saint of the city.
By plane: The nearest airport is Federico García Lorca Granada-Jaén Airport , located about 12 miles outside the city. The airport offers mostly domestic flights and a few international connections (most flights connect through Spain's larger cities, Madrid and Barcelona).
By train: Travelers can also make their way to Granada by train from both Madrid and Barcelona. Madrid to Granada takes about four hours, while the Barcelona to Granada train takes about six. By car: Anyone can get to Granada by car as well, as the city is well-connected to major highways traveling to and from Madrid, Seville , and other coastal cities.
KavalenkavaVolha/Getty Images
By car: Renting a car in Granada is simple. Several major rental car companies have outposts here, including Sixt, Europcar, and Avis. Having a car will allow you to explore the outer regions of the city and into the mountains, but be warned — parking in the heart of town can be difficult.
By public transit: Buses are the main form of public transport in Granada. The system covers most of the city, making it simple to hop on and off between neighborhoods. A regular bus ticket runs at about $1.50. See the map and full fare schedule here .
By taxi: Taxis are also easy to come by throughout Granada. As Love Granada explains, there are two types of fares — daytime rates for weekdays and nighttime rates for late weeknights and holidays. Just like in cities around the world, you can hail a cab on the street by throwing up your hand in the air and by trying to spot any taxi with a green light on its roof (which indicates it's open for a ride).
Related Articles
The First-Timer’s Guide to Granada, Spain
Updated February 2024
In the south of Spain, Andalusia is one of the best regions to visit. Surrounded by the towering Sierra Nevadas is Granada, quite possibly one of the most charming cities to visit.
Granada, Spain is quintessential on a visit to this part of Spain. Not only beautiful to the eye, but the city is also a treasure chest of surprises. Certainly most known for the Alhambra, the palace and fortress that sits in the center of the city, it’s a destination for travelers wanting to dive into history.
Amidst the Islamic architecture, you find winding streets that span up and down the hillsides of Granada. Within them, old-world bars serving typical tapas of the region and strong sweet wine, something you can’t miss while there. And of course, plenty of local shops selling goods that hail from the east.
It was my first time to this city and I’ll say it exceeded my expectations. I had no idea what to expect, as I found most travelers shared this sentiment with me. We all came for the Alhambra but found ourselves falling for an idealistic city. A city that has enough grit to keep it interesting and an untamed beauty in design.
Short on Time? Here Are My Top Picks for the Best Hotels and Things to Do in Granada:
- Hotel Casa 1800 Granada , for the best overall hotel
- Parador de Granada , for the best luxury hotel
Things to Do
Visit the alhambra and generalife.
- Tour Granada Cathedral
- Catch the Sunset at Mirador San Nicolás
For more on how to make the most of your time in Grananda, don’t miss my post on the top things to do in Granada, Spain !
What to Know Before Traveling to Granada, Spain
Getting to Granada, Spain
If you’re coming from a major city, you’ll most likely opt to take a train. I found that the bus systems in the south of Spain were more effective, so I took a bus from Malagá to get here. It was much cheaper and around the same amount of time using Alsa to book the ticket. For more on this, see my guide to getting around Andalucía without a car .
Transportation Once in Granada
Booking a hotel in the heart of the city will mean you won’t have to get in a car once. You can walk to everything. There are taxis available as well. If you do decide to get a car to explore the surrounding areas, I recommend booking with Discover Cars for the best rental car deals.
Credit cards are accepted mostly everywhere though carrying Euros is recommended.
Spanish is the main language, and English is spoken as well.
Best Time of Year to Visit Granada
I’d recommend avoiding summer, the crowds are notoriously intense. The late fall was wonderful when I was there and the city was still busy (even the Alhambra was sold out weeks in advance).
Amount of Time
I booked in two nights and three full days and still didn’t do it all. I loved this city and would have stayed another night if I could have.
Where to Stay in Granada, Spain
Hotel casa 1800 granada.
Hotel Casa 1800 Granada was one of the most memorable stays I’ve had in a long time. Set in a 16th-century historic home, this luxury boutique hotel is incredibly intimate and charming. No room is alike; each is unique with its decorations and style. The inner courtyard is home to breakfast and afternoon tea each day. Its location is perfect — footsteps from everything in the city yet set back off the street so it is quiet at night. I’d highly recommend booking this hotel in advance as there are only 25 rooms. I’d also recommend booking a Deluxe Room or a Junior Suite. Book the best rates here .
Where to Eat in Granada, Spain
Bar Los Diamantes
Known as the everything fried seafood restaurant, this is a classic for Granada. I came here twice, once for the small fried fish and peppers and another for the chipirones (small squid).
Bodegas Castañeda
One of the oldest bodegas in town, come here for classic dishes in the region.
Betula Nana
A newer restaurant to open in town, this charming spot was a favorite for me for a late lunch. Be sure to order the seasonal soup and the ceviche!
Al Sur de Granada
A quaint wine bar in town with small plates as well.
A local’s spot for small bites and drinks, I’d recommend getting a few local kinds of cheese and meats here.
For a more upscale dinner or lunch, this menu does a modern prix fixe menu of regional food, using local ingredients and beautiful plating.
- Noat Coffee
Though it’s a coffee shop, they serve a wonderful breakfast and sandwiches for lunch.
Where to Get Coffee in Granada
- La Finca Coffee
- Sur Coffee Corner
What to Do in Granada, Spain
Most people come to Granada to visit the incredible Alhambra and Generalife castle and gardens that sit above the city. I cannot stress enough to book your tickets very far in advance . It sells out weeks to months in advance, depending on the season; even I had a hard time getting a ticket for a Wednesday in late November. Plan to spend 2-3+ hours here. I’d recommend booking a guided tour if you can’t get a ticket or skip-the-line ticket on Viator. You can try booking a ticket directly through their portal as well. Check this resource for buying your tickets if none of the above works. Or book your tour here .
Walk the Historical Center and the Albaicín
Both of these neighborhoods are beautiful for just a stroll. It was one of the highlights for me to just walk around and get lost in the winding streets. It’s also a photographer’s dream city for photos of quaint streets. The Albaicín is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, known for the whitewashed buildings and streets.
Go Inside the Granada Cathedral
This is worth the fee to enter in, the interior is grand and stunning. This guided tour is also a great option if you’re looking for a deeper dive into the Cathedral’s history.
Catch the Sunset at Mirador de San Nicolás
You won’t be the only one here for sunset, so I’d arrive early and settle in. It’s stunning. The view from Mirador de San Nicolás over Granada and the Alhambra is incredible. Be sure to stay past sunset when the lights of the Alhambra turn on.
Other Sites to Visit
- El Bañuelo (Arab baths)
- Palacio de los Cordova
- Casa Horno del Oro
- Corral del Carbón
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PS — Are You Booking a Trip Soon? Use My Booking Checklist!
These are the sites I use most to book my own trips. Using the links below is a great way to support Bon Traveler’s travel journalism at no extra cost to you . If you need help organizing your itinerary, get my free travel itinerary template here .
1. Book Your Flights
I use Skyscanner to find the best flights. It searches 100s of airlines and websites across the globe to ensure you’re not missing out on any route options or deals.
2. Book Your Accommodations
I use Booking.com for hotels and guest houses. They have the biggest inventory and consistently offer the best rates.
3. Book Your Rental Car
Self-driving is the best way to explore most destinations. I use Discover Cars for our rental cars, select full coverage insurance, and opt for a reputable company like Alamo, Hertz, or Sixt.
4. Book Your Tours & Experiences
I use Viator or Get Your Guide to find the best tours and experiences. They are my favorite tour search engines. I always check both as their inventory varies depending on the destination.
5. Don’t Forget Airport Lounge Access
I use Priority Pass to gain access to 1,400+ VIP lounges and airport experiences worldwide. The Priority Pass app is the first thing I check when I have a layover. I’ve been a member for over a decade, and having a comfortable place to relax before and between flights makes air travel so much more enjoyable.
6. Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
I never leave the country without travel insurance. It provides comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong (ie. illness, injury, theft, and cancelations, etc.). I use it frequently for my travels to stay protected.
My favorite companies that offer the best coverage and rates are:
- World Nomads (best for all-around)
- Safety Wing (best for frequent travelers)
Xx, Jessica
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Discover the very best of Granada with our guide to where to stay and what to do
Discover the best places to stay in bewitching Granada, from restored Moorish palaces to arts-inspired boutique hotels.
Granada: the complete guide. Published in the April issue of The Sunday Times Travel MagazineFew cities in Spain come with a spectacle as iconic as the Alhambra. Floodlit high on its dark hill by night, it floats above Granada.
36 Hours in Granada, Spain. Explore the map and find things to do in Granada. Friday. 1) 5 P.M. Lofty Foundations. Nestled into the same hill as the Alhambra and with the same sweeping views over...
Granada is about as captivating a city as they come. The city, tucked at the base of the Sierra Nevada Mountains in Spain's Andalusia region, is filled with more historic charm than perhaps one...
Granada, Spain is quintessential on a visit to this part of Spain. Not only beautiful to the eye, but the city is also a treasure chest of surprises. Certainly most known for the Alhambra, the palace and fortress that sits in the center of the city, it’s a destination for travelers wanting to dive into history.