tbilisi bunker tour

Soviet Bunkers in Tbilisi: First-ever Legal Soviet Bunker Tour in Tbilisi

There is an underground world of Soviet bunkers in Tbilisi that many locals don’t even know about. A network of tunnels, chambers, and bomb shelters are scattered across the capital, most of which are not accessible to the public. However, one group of diggers managed to get permission from the government to open it to the public and offer the first-ever legal Soviet bunker tour. 

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The history of Soviet bunkers in Tbilisi

Bunkers and bomb shelters are not a novelty to the world. I believe every country had some, but they were an integral part of Soviet rule. Every post-Soviet country has a network of these bunkers in the major cities, and Tbilisi is no exception. For instance, Albania and its capital have over 173,000 such bunkers.  

Since constructing these bunkers was top-secret, no documented facts exist to study them. Consequently, this secrecy led to the creation of legends and inaccurate information.  

According to an  article publis hed in Georgia Today, most of these Soviet bunkers in Tbilisi were built by notorious Lavrenti Beria, a head of the Secret Police between 1938 and 1945 and a right hand of Stalin in many acts of brutality and cruelty. 

State archives don’t have much information on Beria’s underground world, and even large-scale Soviet maps of Tbilisi don’t indicate them either. However, the proof of the existing tunnels and bunkers reflects the city development that Beria was in charge of, including the sewage system in Tbilisi and the several famous Soviet architectural buildings on today’s Rustaveli Ave. 

The article also states that besides being used as shelter in case of a bomb or nuclear attack, some Soviet bunkers in Tbilisi were torture chambers used by Beria. 

There are secret Soviet bunkers in Tbilisi that could be around 2km long, leading to the territory of Rustaveli metro station. These undocumented facts leave scholars to assume for what purpose Beria built them. The reasonable theory is secretly transporting prisoners from Tbilisi via these train tunnels. 

Around a decade after World War II and during the Cold War, the Soviet government administered a large budget to prepare for bomb and nuclear attacks. There are around 482 Soviet bunkers in Tbilisi alone, one of which is well maintained, open to the public, and the focus of this blog post. 

The majority of Soviet bunkers in Tbilisi built during the Cold War aimed to safeguard the capital’s citizens during bomb or nuclear attacks. 

What happened to bunkers in Tbilisi after the collapse of the USSR

After the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1991, these bunkers in Tbilisi and Georgia were abandoned, robbed, or even privatized. Today, most of these bunkers require special permission to visit. 

!! Note !!  Entering these Soviet bunkers in Tbilisi or Georgia independently is dangerous without special equipment or a guide, as many are damaged and partly collapsed. Some are flooded and might have poisonous substances, rats, and bats inside. 

The first-ever legal tour of the Soviet bunkers in Tbilisi

There’s one more sight to be added to your list of things to do in Tbilisi if you are a Soviet things lover like me. While walking down the streets of Tbilisi, Soviet brutalist architecture is evident, but what happens underground is the mystery that the network of Tbilisi’s diggers recently uncovered for the general public. 

Diggers are adventurous Georgians who visit these secret underground tunnels and occasionally share their findings in social media groups. However, they rarely disclose the exact locations of these spaces for the safety of many reckless citizens. Moreover, as I mentioned earlier, some bunkers in Tbilisi are only accessed via special permission from the government. 

I found Tornike Kapanadze, one of the diggers, via his Facebook page,  Wise Guy – თხუნელა  by accident, who advertised the first-ever legal Soviet bunker tour in Tbilisi and I immediately contacted him. 

If you are uncomfortable contacting him directly, WT Georgia also offers occasional organized tours to this same Tbilisi bunker . You can get 10% off on your spot on their tours by emailing them a code: Red Fedora . 

Tornike leads tours to one of the most well-preserved Soviet bunkers in Tbilisi built as a supervisory point, which also could have been used for civic safety and defense in case of any attacks.  

Most of such Soviet bunkers in Tbilisi, as Tornike tells me, are built for the safety of citizens. Still, only a few had a different purpose, like the one he organizes tours at and another much more extensive one Soviets made for the staff members of the government. 

According to his information, a Russian engineer Pavle Groves, a prisoner of Soviet rule, planned out some of these bunkers in Tbilisi. German captives and death-sentenced prisoners were used as a labor force to prevent them from publicizing the locations. 

What to expect in the Soviet bunker tour

This bunker, nestled around 10 meters deep underneath Tbilisi, has several hermetic doors to seal the place, diesel generators to produce electricity, a ventilation system of fresh air, a water supply, communication machinery, and an emergency exit. He tells me that the bunker controlled the entire Gldani-Nadzaladevi neighborhood. 

Probably built in the 1950s, this bunker has never been listed on Tbilisi’s so-called secret bunkers list, making a visit here even more exciting and unique.

During the tour, Tornike debunks the myth that bunkers were full of food and that people could live there for weeks and years without going out. In reality, unless there was a thread, these bunkers never stored food and could only supply people for a month time. 

Every wall, inch, door, and layout of these bunkers, in general, served some purpose. For instance, between two closed hermetic doors, there’s a sealed hallway used for a person who’d go above the ground during an attack to bring food and water supplies down. But before entering the space, he/she’d be disinfected not to get any poison or disease inside. 

The bunker consists of several rooms, where every writing, poster, or plaque on the door is in Russian, and nothing is in the Georgian language. 

One of the rooms has a massive communications box with plenty of buttons and two headsets. Staff used the box to communicate with other Soviet bunkers in Tbilisi, Georgia, Russia, and elsewhere in the post-Soviet countries or any governmental organizations of that time. 

Above the communication box, several paper posters present the schedule, names, surnames of people working here, their home numbers and addresses, and other numbers of bunkers or organizations to call. 

This bunker also has a rare find – a diesel generator to supply the place with electricity. Most of these diesel generators were taken out from those bunkers after the collapse of the Soviet Union when people started robbing them. 

Here, you can also see ventilation system pipes that filter fresh air into the bunker. 

There is also a conference room with dark green lights, old wooden chairs, a big table with a few documents and old bottles, and a world map hanging on the wall. Honestly, this room looks explicitly quite creepy. 

In addition, there is a first-aid room with all the necessary equipment from the past to treat the patients on-site. 

You can also see comics-like brochures on what to do during the nuclear attacks, what are the symptoms of atomic exposure, and different ways to bury a person. Therefore, the bunker also has Soviet-era equipment to measure the surface’s nuclear levels. 

Tornike says that most of the items represented in the bunker have originally been here, but some are brought from other bunkers or donated by somebody for display purposes. He also adds that they try to keep it as natural as possible for the guests to travel in the time of Soviet Tbilisi and feel the tensions of the Cold War. 

How to visit the Soviet bunker in Tbilisi

Tours are held on demand, and they don’t have a particular schedule at the moment. You can contact Tornike on this  Facebook page , he is very responsive, and you can schedule a time with him directly. 

Alternatively, join WT Georgia on an organized tour . You can get 10% off on your spot on their tours by emailing them a code: Red Fedora . 

The tour lasts around 30-40 minutes, but it can be slightly longer depending on the questions and interests of the group. 

He is attentive to every question and answers it as thoroughly as he can. He also explains everything in detail, how the Soviet Union worked in terms of Civic Education and Defense, giving a brief history of the governmental state of that time, before going into details of the bunker system.  

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Tbilisi’s Bunkers: A Secret Soviet Underworld

Updated June 2024, Tbilisi’s Bunkers: A Secret Soviet Underworld was originally published in November 2023

A beguiling network of Soviet-era bunkers, bomb shelters, chambers, and tunnels weave their way beneath Georgia’s capital city of Tbilisi . 

These bunkers of Tbilisi have managed to stay mostly a secret until more recently, but even then, many people, even residents of the city don’t know about their existence.

I’d known about the bunkers myself for a few years and that there was a group, largely referred to as ‘diggers’ who knew some of the underground world beneath Tbilisi. 

After some searching around, I found the contact info of a man offering tours to the Soviet bunkers of Tbilisi and after a couple of exchanges, we arranged to see them on my most recent re-visit to Georgia in June (don’t worry, the contact info is included later in the post!).

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History of Tbilisi’s Underground World

Tbilisi is a unique city in that its underground history dates back centuries, long before the network of Soviet bunkers were established. 

So, how did so much of Tbilisi end up underground? 

The Underbelly of the Old City

Long story short, Tbilisi was sacked by the Persians, Khwarezmians, Ummyads, and others 27 times which drove residents to go underground, and in 1795 during the notorious Battle of Krtsanisi, the city was burned to the ground and razed.

Owing to the numerous attacks on the city over the centuries, an extensive series of caravanserais, passages, cellars, bazaars, and sulfur baths lie beneath Tbilisi’s Old City. 

You can easily visit parts of Tbilisi’s ancient underworld, via the Meidan Bazaar, the sulfur baths of Abanotubani, the Tbilisi Wine Museum, and several restaurants and bars scattered about the Old City. 

The Early Bolsheviks’ Underground Hermitage for Propaganda 

Fast-forward to the early 20th century and a young Iosif Djugashvili (who would later become the infamous Joseph Stalin) established a secret chamber beneath a nondescript house located at #7 Kaspi Street in Tbilisi’s Avlabari District.

Of course, this chamber was used to house Stalin’s Underground Printing Press where he and Bolshevik Revolutionaries would print propaganda in the form of newspapers, magazines, pamphlets, and flyers in Georgian, Armenian, and Russian.

The printing press was smuggled to Georgia from Germany in pieces by supporters of the Bolsheviks and placed in the above-mentioned chamber which was accessible via a 15 meter well and a tunnel.

In 1906 the printing press was discovered by police and destroyed with its well filled to the brim with soil. Under Stalin’s rule during the Soviet era, the printing press and chambers were restored. Present day, you can visit Stalin’s Underground Printing Press Museum and climb down into the very chamber yourself.

Tbilisi’s Soviet Bunkers: A Top-Secret Subterranean Network

Built under the order of Stalin’s righthand man (at the time, anyway) and the appointed Georgian Communist Party Central Committee leader, Lavrenty Beria, an extensive system of bunkers, tunnels, and chambers were erected beneath Tbilisi.

At the time, Beria was tasked with developing a sewage system for Tbilisi and this is where one begins to find the traces of his secret project.

Due to the top-secret nature of Beria’s Soviet-era bunker system in Tbilisi, there is no evidence of them found in state archives, not even a map. 

It’s estimated that this series of bunkers built beneath Tbilisi extend over two kilometers and are speculated to have been used as torture chambers by Beria as well as to secretly transport prisoners out of the city.

Following the conclusion of WWII and the kick-off of the Cold War, the Soviet Union set aside a large budget to be used to construct bomb shelters in larger Soviet cities in the event of bomb and nuclear attacks which accelerated the creation of even more Tbilisi bunkers.

As a result, there are over 400 underground bunkers scattered beneath Tbilisi that had been built to safeguard citizens in the event of an attack. 

One of these bunkers (and soon to be a second!) is possible to legally visit on a Soviet Tbilisi Bunker Tour.

Hitting the One Million Mark: The Tbilisi Metro

The threshold for a city in the Soviet Union to get a metro system was hitting one million residents.

Tbilisi finally joined the ranks of other Soviet metropolises and in 1966 the Tbilisi Metro officially opened its doors.

Following the Collapse of the USSR

In 1991, as the Soviet Union crumbled and SSRs gained their independence, the Soviet bunkers of Tbilisi fell into disuse, seeing most abandoned and or looted. 

A handful were privatized but aside from that, this underground world under Georgia’s capital was almost completely forgotten.

In Come the Tbilisi Diggers

Urbexing (the term used for urban exploration) became popular in many parts of the former USSR throughout the 1990s and Georgia was no exception.

This led to a group known as the ‘diggers’ being established, a group that has explored much of underground Tbilisi over the years and abides by a strict set of rules. 

Taking a Tbilisi Bunker Tour

As with the dangerous nature of these Soviet bunkers, its recommended to take a Soviet Tbilisi Bunker tour to the one bunker that is legally permitted to visit.

These tours are run by none other than  Tornike Kapanadze , a well-known digger who was gone through the process of making some of these bunkers legal (and safe) to visit. 

Tornike will meet you at a set of doors that conceal a bunker hidden about 10 meters below ground. 

The bunker believed to have been constructed in the 1950s and to have controlled the Gldani-Nadzaladevi neighborhood, housed a large diesel generator for electricity production, a communications system, a water supply, and a ventilation system.

He also went on to explain that many of these bunkers were designed by Pavle Groves, a Russian engineer and Soviet prisoner. The bunkers were constructed by German prisoners as laborers, most of them on a death sentence, and therefore unable to spread the existence of these bunkers to the outside world.

This bunker, in particular, features several rooms- all of which served an important purpose.

Just behind the entrance doors, a hallway leads to a sealed room where a person tasked with going above ground to bring food, water, and supplies down during an attack would be disinfected to prevent the introduction of disease or poison to the bunker.

Continuing further inside, a diesel generator used to supply the bunker with electricity is on display, a rare find considering the generators scattered about the bunker system in Tbilisi were looted out in the 90s. The room also features a ventilation system that would have brought fresh air inside.

In another room, a communications board is still in place that was used to communicate with other bunkers in Tbilisi, as well as other parts of Georgia and other parts of the USSR. Along with the communication board are lists of names and home numbers of workers in the bunker, numbers of other bunkers, and phone numbers of governmental organizations. 

Another interesting room in the bunker is a conference room that features wooden desks and chairs, a map, and a painting of Stalin.

Finally, my favorite room of the bunker was the first aid room, where workers could be treated for a variety of ailments on-site. 

The bunker tour lasts 30-60 minutes, depending on how many questions you have for Tornike. He knows the bunkers and their little-known history quite well. Prices run about 80 GEL per person, to which the fee goes towards maintaining the bunker and clean up of others.

How to Visit this Soviet Bunker in Tbilisi

To set up a tour of the bunker, contact Tornike via his  Facebook page  to set up a time. On the day of, he will send you the meeting location from which your tour will begin.

Tornike is in the process of getting another bunker set up for tours, which should hopefully be ready soon.

Bonus: Telatgori Water Reservoir

While not a bunker per se, an interesting Urbex site to explore in Tbilisi is the abandoned Telatgori Reservoir. It’s located behind the (also) abandoned Archeology Museum.

Have any questions about the Soviet Bunkers of Tbilisi?

Ask in the comments section below.

More posts from Georgia:

Hiking to Abudelauri Lakes in Georgia

How to Get to Pankisi Valley from Telavi, Georgia 

Visiting the Rkoni Monastery & Queen Tamar Bridge, Georgia

24 Things to do in Tbilisi, Georgia + Tbilisi Travel Guide

Pankisi Valley Travel Guide

Visiting Uplistsikhe Cave Town, Georgia 

Crossing the Georgia-Armenia Border by Marshrutka

Tbilisi Metro: Georgia Underground

Exploring the Best Wine Regions of Georgia

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Urbex & Soviet Tbilisi

• Exclusive insights into Tbilisi’s Soviet era
• Access private museums of urban lore
• Personalized tours of iconic Brutalist structures
• Intimate, story-rich travel experience
• Expert guide enriching each visit

Step off the beaten path and into the heart of Tbilisi’s Soviet past. Our specialized day tour invites you to a vivid exploration of architectural marvels and clandestine stories. With each step, uncover the stark, awe-inspiring structures of Brutalism and the nuanced tales of life during Soviet times, all while enjoying the comfort and exclusivity of a private tour designed with discernment and curiosity in mind. Dive deep into a world where history and modernity collide spectacularly, promising not just a trip, but a transformation.

Description

Your journey begins the moment we pick you up in our comfortable vehicle, tailored to your preferences for starting locations within Tbilisi. The first destination is the Underground Printing House Museum, where a 30-minute guided tour reveals secrets of covert operations and resistance movements.

Travel briefly to the enigmatic Palace of Rituals, a prime example of Brutalist architecture, for a quick photo session. As the day unfolds, we venture towards the Chronicle of Georgia, standing tall with its towering pillars and grand murals, each narrating a different slice of Georgian history, accompanied by an expert guide who brings the stories to life.

Next, we make a stop at the Bank of Georgia, a stunning architectural feat, for a brief photo opportunity. The journey continues to the Tbilisi Skybridge, a structure that blends historical depth with modern design, offering both a guided exploration and time for capturing memories.

The tour culminates with a ‘secret stop’ — a surprise location that promises to enchant with its unique charm and historical significance. As the tour concludes, we offer flexible drop-off options either at your hotel or another convenient downtown location, ensuring a seamless transition to your next adventure or a relaxing end to your day.

Throughout the day, revel in the blend of architectural grandeur and the intimate tales of a city that has lived through an era of intense transformation. This tour not only transports you through Tbilisi’s Soviet heritage but also offers a profound understanding of how the past continuously molds the present.

Visited Attractions *

Our tour program's list of attractions is a guide, not exhaustive. Unlisted sites may be visited, and listed ones might be viewed from a distance. Conditions like operating hours, weather, or local rules may affect access. Thank you for your understanding.

  This experience has open departure and can be organized based on your preferred dates. Remember, prices vary based on the exact group size.

• GEL 450 / USD 167 per person for the group of 1 participant
• GEL 250 / USD 93 per person for the group of 2 participants
• GEL 200 / USD 74 per person for the group of 3 participants
• GEL 190 / USD 71 per person for the group of 4 participants
• GEL 180 / USD 67 per person for the group of 5 participants
• GEL 170 / USD 63 per person for the group of 6 participants
• GEL 160 / USD 59 per person for the group of 7 participants
• GEL 150 / USD 56 per person for the group of 8 participants

1 day — Half day,

Private car: ~30 km. *

Sightseeing: ~3 hours. *

Entrance fees to all sites according to the programm, Two 0.5-liter bottles of mineral water per person, Private English-speaking guide.

Personal expenses and tips.

The provided measures of total kilometers for transport, duration of guide services, and activities in our tour program are approximate and may vary depending on the program flow and terrain conditions. While we strive to ensure the accuracy of these numbers, please note that they are intended as estimates. We make every effort to provide the most precise information possible to give you an idea of the overall tour experience.

More on Sightseeing Special Tours

Tbilisi Underground

Tbilisi free online tours – the blue house, tbilisi free online tours – “the blue house” part 2.

Tbilisi Underground – Starting from the 1st and 2nd centuries AD, when Tbilisi was founded, till today the city keeps its spirit not only with the sights and masterpieces that everybody visits but, also with hidden stories that not many know. Yet those places actually keep the main answer to the question – how could this city resurrect from the fire for 27 times? It’s the underground. A vast net of basements, wine cellars, passages and secret tunnels managed to maintain the shape of the old town for centuries.

When Tbilisi was burnt for the last time in the end of 18th century by Persians, soon the monarchy was over in Georgia. It became a part of Russian empire under the rule of which Tbilisi became the central city of Caucasus region. So, 19th century started with restoration of Tbilisi’s old quarters by rebuilding the houses based on the surviving basements and wine cellars. This is how the underground helped the city.

Sulfur Baths

Today you can actually see some parts of the medieval underground. Everything starts with Sulfur Baths district, the birthplace of Tbilisi. Here, where thermal springs burst out from rocks, gather to Persian-style-decorated baths, the social spaces of medieval Tbilisi. Being a place of nudity sulfur baths always kept lots of secrets in their tile-ornamented walls. Most of them were built under the ground level to generate more heat and keep more privacy. These underground or semi-underground buildings are the best preserved examples of underground Tbilisi.

Caravanserais

Tbilisi was the city of merchants, so they needed to keep their products safely. Newly opened Wine Museum in Old Tbilisi keeps big spaces that were used to keep goods and to get in touch with some other Caravanserais in past times. You can smell of some sulfur, typical for the Old Town, as Tbilisi was founded on thermal waters. Some of the underground passages were so deep that today they are filled with the river water.

Stalin’s Underground Printing House

The spirit of underground didn’t leave the city in the 20th century either. On the contrary, it became some kind of a power generator of upcoming Soviet revolution. In 1903 years young Stalin and his revolution gang established a secret printing house right under of a typical houses in Tbilisi where they would print some literature of Marx as well as lots of proclamations by Lenin and other revolutioners. The illegal printing house was discovered and burnt in 1906 but in Soviet times the place became a museum and one of the most visited destinations for communists. You can have a detailed look inside of the illegal printing house today with Soviet Tour of Tbilisi. To visit this place, join us for Soviet Tour Of Tbilisi

The spirit of underground didn’t leave the city in the 20th century either. In Soviet era the metro system was introduced. The 60’s were the times of cold war, so, the construction of underground stations took place as deep as 60 metres under the surface. Decorated in different colors of marble they still keep the shade of Soviet spirit that occupied the country for 70 years. They even say that some stones for the stations were taken from the graves of bourgeois.

In parallel of metro construction hundreds of other bunkers and top secret passages had been constructed in Soviet era. Some of them are connected to the governmental buildings and metro lines but, officially, none of them are used. On the other side, only few of them are allowed to be filmed. It’s a heritage of cold war period where the time is literally stopped and almost nobody thinks of that secret net that might be located underneath their feet while walking in the old quarters of the city.

The story of Tbilisi underground continues at present as well. In 2014 an abandoned swimming pool right under the football stadium was redesigned into a night club Bassiani and since then has become one of the most iconic modern type attractions of the city. Here come the world’s most popular dj artists to give whole-night shows. Years later Bassiani also became a symbol of youth fighting for gay rights.

Underground Passes

Underground has always played a significant role in Tbilisi’s history. Even now, when lots of underground passes are rehabilitated, they have become a major attraction to street artists. If you want to discover the colors of Tbilisi underground just walk under Heroes Square and over Baratashvili Bridge. Or follow any of the routs of Tbilisi Free Walking Tours and uncover the secrets with us.

Author: Zura Balanchivadze

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Group tours and hikes in Georgia and Armenia

Top Day Tours from Tbilisi

Select date and travelers, total seats :  50 /50.

Join us on adventure in Georgia. We will enjoy the most beautiful views, visit important historical and religious sites, enjoy the stunning nature of the Caucasus, Walk in the woods, Breath the fresh air, Taste the mineral waters, rafting, urban exploring, wine tasting and ancient culture and much much more.

• 1. Highlights of Caucasus mountains.
• Kazbegi National Park
• Ananuri complex
• Jinvali reservoir
• Gudauri Panorama
• Gergeti mountain and trinity church
• Stepantsminda town
• Gveleti waterfall hike – 3 km / 2 hrs / easy level / min. elevation 1432 ma.s.l./ max. elevation 1721 m.a.s.l. (can be skipped due to weather conditions or non prepared guests)

Our driver will pick you up from your chosen location in Tbilisi at recommended 08:00 am. You will depart the capital and drive north along the famous Georgian Military Road. On the way, you will stop to admire the medieval Ananuri Architectural Complex and the Gudauri Panorama. You will also have an opportunity for a short yet intense hike to the 25-meter-high Gveleti Waterfall. In the afternoon, you will drive to Stepatsminda town and take a drive towards Gergeti Holy Trinity Church. This 14th-century church stands on the right bank of the river Chkheri at an elevation of 2170 meters. Its isolated location on top of a steep mountain surrounded by the vastness of nature has made it a symbol for Georgia. After you will visit a local restaurant for lunch. Return to Tbilisi.

• 2. Tasty Kakheti Wine Region
• Local bread ”shoti” making
• Bodbe Monastery
• Sighnaghi city of love
• Vizit to a winery
• Wine tasting classes and dinner

Our driver will pick you up from your chosen location in Tbilisi at recommended 9-10 am. This tour will allow you to explore the Kakheti region, famous for its diverse wine and cuisine. We will start our day with a visit to a local bakery to learn how to bake traditional shoti bread. Next, we will visit the famous Bodbe Monastery, one of the important pilgrimage sites in Georgia, and Sighnaghi, a charming little town full of 18th-19th-century architecture and fantastic views. we will walk on Sighnaghi city wall and explore local souvenirs.  We will finish our day with a visit to  winery. There you can order and enjoy a delicious Georgian meal and wine tasting, also learn how our winemaking tradition comes from Qvevry wine pots. Return to Tbilisi in the evening.

• 3. Green Borjomi city, ancient cave town of Uplistsikhe, Old capital Mtskheta
• Jvari monastery
• Views of Mtskheta old capital and two rivers fall in love.
• Borjomi green park and mineral waters
• Uplistsikhe cave town

Our driver will pick you up from your chosen location in Tbilisi at recommended 9 am. Our first stop is famous Jvari monastery on the top of the mountain overlooking Mtskheta city Relaxed trip to Borjomi Resort. It’s the perfect place to stretch your legs and enjoy the fresh mountain air. Borjomi, a resort town in south-central Georgia famous for its mineral water. Upon arrival, we will stroll along its lovely historical streets to Borjomi Central Park. We can get a cable car ride to see the town from above and walk to the local sulfur baths (3 km one way). The open-air pools work even in winter, so we will jump into the warm water (approx. 30-32 Celcius degrees) to splash around. Later on the way back we will visit our favorite restaurant for lunch break.  on the way there is the most interesting cave-town waiting…Uplitsikhe was a cult temple city, a large pagan center prior to Christianity introduction in Georgia in the 4th century. Return to Tbilisi in the evening.

• 4. Summer Refreshing Rafting Experience
• Pshavi mountainous Region
• Rafter’s camp and rope park
• Rafting instructions and 10km rafting on Aragvi river

We will leave Tbilisi in the morning recommended 10-11 am and head north to our favorite rafting camp on the shores of the Aragvi River. Our rafting tour will take a bit over 1 hour. We will be accompanied by rafting instructors who will provide instructions and help us maneuver on the river. The whole length of our rafting course will be over 10 km. Aragvi River rafting is identified as easy level, so it’s a perfect tour for first-timers and it is quite a fun and not boring river. First timers need to know that everyone is going to get wet in a boat and the second pair of clothes are a must. some of us sit in a boat bare foot, but to avoid skin damage it is better to have sandals or shoes. We leave our phones in the car, or take phone waterproof cases with us. After rafting we will change our clothes and go to order lunch at their beautiful park. You will have an opportunity to take a shower and relax and enjoy adventorous rope park. Return to Tbilisi in the evening.

• 5. Tbilisi City Tour
• Botanical garden and waterfall
• Mtatsminda Park

Our driver will pirck you and we will start our tour from the old part of Tbilisi ,we will stop the car and discover the city following places : Tbilisi sulphur pools, Bridge of Love, Waterfall, Meidan Bazar Tunnel, Gorgasali Monument, Narikala Fortress, Mother of Georgia, Rike Park – Cable car ride,  Bridge of Peace. Later we will go to Mtatsminda Park. located at the top of Mount Mtatsminda overlooking the capital Tbilisi. The park has carousels, water slides, a roller-coaster, funicular, and a big Ferris Wheel at the edge of the mountain, offering also splendid view over the city.

• 6. Tbilisi Soviet Bunker tour
• One hour guided tour to Abandoned Soviet Bunker in Tbilisi.

Visit a real Soviet bunker located beneath the streets of Tbilisi. Tbilisi bunkers create an underground city beneath the capital’s streets. During the Cold War, the Soviet Union allocated a large budget to prepare for nuclear and other attacks. Under Tbilisi alone, there are about 450 bunkers, one of which includes a large control panel to provide communication with bunkers below other Georgian cities. During our tour through the bunker, we will learn, among others, how such facilities were heated, where they were getting water from, and how they communicated with each other. We will also have an opportunity to take a closer look at the technology used to measure radiation and protect it from its impact.

• 7. Imereti Region – Chiatura and Katskhi Pillar Road tour
• Modi Nakhe fortress and views
• Mghvimevi Cave-monastery
• Chiatura city
• Katskhi pillar

We will leave Tbilisi in the morning recommended 8-9 am and head to the Imereti region. Our first stop will be Modinakhe – a reconstructed medieval fortress towering over Sachkhere. Next, we will drive to the mining town of Chiatura, where we will stop at the medieval rock-carved Mghvimevi Monastery and take a cable car ride to the ruins of the former Pioneer Palace. Finally, we will visit the fascinating impressive 40-meter-high Katskhi Pillar, with a tiny hermitage built on top of it. While climbing to the top of the pillar is forbidden for secular people, the view of the church is one of the most iconic in Georgia. Return to Tbilisi in the evening.

• 8. Tsalka – Dashbashi Canyon and Asureti German village  
• Kvemo kartli Region
• Tsalka city and Dimond glass bridge
• Dashbashi canyon waterfalls
• Asureti old Elizabethall German settlement

We will leave Tbilisi in the morning recommended 9-10 am. This itinerary combines two fantastic sites – the amazing Dashbashi Canyon with a 240-meter-long glass bridge and the historical Asureti village built by 19th-century German settlers. Once we reach the canyon, we will take a walk on a 240-meters-long glass bridge stretching over it. Next, we will take walk down the canyon to see the beautiful Dashbashi Waterfall. The walk is  around 3 km round way but a lot of stairs. Later on, we will head to Asureti, a cozy village once known as Elisabethal. German settlers built the town at the beginning of the 19th century. The place still partially maintains its original architecture. We will stroll the cobbled streets, visit a local cemetery, and dine in the Bahnhof Station restaurant. return to Tbilisi.

• Culinary masterclass
• Fortress sightseeing
• Monastery visit
• Nature walk
• Sulfur bath visit
• Urban exploration
• Village walk
• Wine tasting

Wander-Lush

Tbilisi in Winter: 22 Cosy & Magical Cold-Weather Activities

22 good reasons to visit Tbilisi in winter , plus my advice for travelling to Georgia in the colder months.

With natural hot springs right in the centre of town and a surplus of cool museums and markets, cosy wine bars and cafes, Tbilisi in winter is an absolute delight.

Many people visit Georgia in winter solely to hit the ski slopes. But its capital is equally suited to a winter city break.

The relatively mild climate makes Tbilisi a good place to escape from Western Europe’s biting cold. An abundance of festivities and weather-appropriate activities means that Tbilisi has just as much to offer visitors during the winter months as any other season .

The first time I visited Georgia it was in late winter. My initial impressions of Tbilisi were of a city still tucked under its winter blanket. Sure, the skies might be a little grey and the greenery a little parched, but that doesn’t detract from Tbilisi’s charm (in a way, it actually adds to it).

Also see: Top 10+ best places to visit in Georgia in winter for snow .

People often have this idea that Tbilisi and Georgia is a hard, frosty place. (Maybe it’s because of the history, or the profuse amount of concrete.) For the most part, this is a misconception .

When you visit Georgia for yourself , you’ll hopefully notice the glowing warmth that emanates from both the people and the national spirit. That, paired with soul-warming Georgian food and wine , is enough to make even the coldest of winter days feel toasty.

My guide to visiting Tbilisi in winter will show you 22 of the city’s top winter activities, plus help you prepare for a cold-weather trip to Georgia with advice on what to wear, pack, what to expect from the weather, and where to stay.

Essential reading: My ultimate list of unique things to do in Tbilisi no matter the season.

Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.

When is it winter in Tbilisi?

Georgia is in the northern hemisphere so winter falls in December/January/February . Cooler temperatures start to set in after the autumn harvest (around mid-October). Winter Solstice falls on December 21/22.

It’s not uncommon for the cold weather to linger on until as late as April. Usually the first signs of spring in Tbilisi start to appear after Orthodox Easter in April/May.

How cold does it get in Tbilisi?

Winter weather in Tbilisi is fairly mild compared to some other cities in Europe. The climate is definitely on the dry side, so you don’t get the same biting chill as in the west of the country ( winters in Kutaisi often feel colder because of the humidity).

Tbilisi is located in a valley, so remember that windchill is definitely a factor. With an icy breeze thrown into the mix, it can feel quite brisk, especially on a clear blue-sky day.

Every year is a bit different, but here is a general idea of what to expect:

Tbilisi in December

Most years, December in Tbilisi feels like an extension of autumn , with fall colours lingering on the trees and temperatures remaining quite mild. Daytime temps average 8-10°C (46-50°F) , while the evenings gradually become chillier as the month wears on.

December and January are the driest months of the year in Tbilisi , so it’s unlikely that rain will interfere with your plans. It’s usually very pleasant to be out and about in the Botanical Garden or one of the city’s parks on a bright winter’s afternoon.

If there happens to be early snowfall (as there was in 2023 and 2024), you might be able to catch snowy landscapes around Tbilisi (for example in Sabaduri Forest ) at the beginning of December or even the end of November.

From the middle of the month, Christmas/New Year festivities start to get into full swing. The city has a wonderful, warm atmosphere – but unfortunately the traffic gets out of control, making it difficult to get around the city.

All in all, late December and early January is my favourite winter period in Georgia.

Tbilisi in January

January is technically the coldest month of the year in Tbilisi, when the mercury dips to an average daytime temperature of 7°C (45°F) . Nights are chilly, with temperatures falling below freezing (32°F).

Again, January is typically dry with a very slim chance of snow in the city.

January tends to be a quieter month, especially in the days after New Year. Some businesses take their holidays in early January and close up for a few weeks.

Tbilisi in February

February temperature are much the same as December (hovering around 8-10°C (46-50°F) during the day), yet this is probably my least favourite of the winter months in Tbilisi.

Even though Tbilisi doesn’t get particularly grey or gloomy, the air does become thick and stagnant by February. In fact Tbilisi has quite a serious air quality problem and has been named among the worst cities in Europe for pollution. The main culprit is nitrogen dioxide from exhaust fumes, which reaches critical levels in several districts .

It’s not necessarily something you have to worry about, but it is something to keep in mind if you’re planning to visit Tbilisi in winter. If you’re sensitive to air pollution, you should monitor IQAir and plan your days accordingly.

Tbilisi in March (winter extended!)

Every year, ‘Moody March’ has something unexpected in store for Tbilisi and Georgia. Oftentimes this transition month brings freezing temperatures, high winds and even snow – making it feel like another month of winter.

Spring finally arrives in Tbilisi in April. See my seasonal spring guide for tips.

Good to know: All restaurants, cafes, museums, shopping centres etc. are heated and comfortable in winter. Central heating is common in homes in Tbilisi and in other places throughout Georgia . Most guesthouses, apartments and hotels have gas heating. I have included my winter accommodation tips at the end of the post.

Does it snow in Tbilisi?

Snow in Tbilisi is an annual occurrence, but it’s usually very light and never lasts more than a couple of hours. Snow usually falls in late winter/early spring. Every year there will be one or two heavy snow days like there were in 2021 and 2022.

In 2020, we had one single day of light snowfall that quickly melted away within 48 hours. It was just enough to dust Mtatsminda with a thin layer of powder – but not enough to warrant wearing snow boots or any special gear. This is typical for Tbilisi. The heavier snow in 2021/22 was quite unusual!

Winter holidays & festivals in Georgia

Here is a quick list of the main calendar dates in Georgia for winter. Note that December 25 is not a holiday – Christmas falls a week later on January 7.

Some small businesses close up from December 31 until the first weeks of January, but you will always find plenty of restaurants/cafes/shops open in Tbilisi during the holiday period.

• End of December: Start of the winter sports season in Georgia
• December 15, 2023 -January 7, 2024: Christmas lights & Christmas Markets in Tbilisi
• December 31, 2023: New Year’s Eve
• January 1, 2024: New Year’s Day (public holiday)
• January 2, 2024: Bedoba (public holiday)
• January 7, 2024: Orthodox Christmas Day (public holiday)
• January 14, 2024: Orthodox New Year (public holiday)
• January 19, 2024: Orthodox Epiphany (public holiday)
• February 14, 2024: Lamproba (Svaneti)

Best things to do in Tbilisi in winter

If Tbilisi in winter sounds like you, you’ll be pleased to know there are plenty of cosy and weather-appropriate things to do in the city. Here are my top general recommendations plus special winter events.

1. Join a winter walking tour

Tbilisi is a city of details – you really need to be on street level to appreciate the many layers of beauty and history. A walking tour offers a perfect introduction to Tbilisi for first-time visitors . You’ll find itineraries for every interest, from food and wine to Brutalist architecture .

Provided you’re dressed appropriately, winter is one of the most pleasant seasons for a stroll. You might even see Leghvtakhevi Waterfall – the waterway that feeds the sulfur baths (see the next section) – frozen solid!

In the winter months, most free walking tours depart in the early afternoon when the sun is shining. Exploring the city by foot is a great way to warm up and see all the highlights at the same time.

Insider tip: Here is a list of my top 11 recommended specialty walking tours in Tbilisi .

2. Warm up at the Tbilisi sulfur baths

The sulfur baths are a Tbilisi institution and a must-do for all visitors. Under the sea of brick-domed roofs in Abanotubani district you’ll find an intriguing underworld of spa culture.

Going for a bath is traditionally a winter activity. That’s because the sulfur waters are naturally warm, ranging from 38-40°C. It’s incredible how thoroughly a short soak warms you to the bone and keeps you radiating heat for hours to come. Whether you opt for a private room (recommended) or a public bathhouse, one thing’s for certain: it’s going to get steamy!

Say yes to a traditional kisi scrub – a lively rub down with a textured mitt performed by a professional therapist – and wave goodbye to a few layers of dead, dry winter skin.

Insider tip: Tbilisi’s baths work differently to the ones in Budapest or Istanbul . For a list of my favourite bathhouses and tips for etiquette, make sure you read my complete guide to the Tbilisi sulfur baths . For natural outdoor hot springs in Georgia, see this list .

3. Do a Georgian wine degustation

Georgia is world-famous for its wine scene and Tbilisi is the best place in the country to sample the full line-up of regional drops. There are wine bars across the city that serve European-style wines and traditional Qvevri wines (fermented underground in a large clay vessel ) by the glass or as part of a degustation.

Many of Tbilisi’s wine bars are located underground inside traditional brick cellars. They are exceptionally atmospheric, romantic, and toasty-warm in winter – the perfect place to unwind after a day of sightseeing.

Georgia’s wine harvest ( the Rtveli ) takes place in autumn (September/early October in Kakheti), so when you visit Tbilisi in winter, you’ll have access to the new vintages, including the latest Saperavis, semi-sweet reds, and legendary amber whites.

Insider tip: Here’s where to do a professional wine tasting in Tbilisi with a sommelier. For something more casual, here are my favourite bars in Tbilisi .

4. Enjoy winter fare

Georgian food is a revelation. If you’ve never tried dishes such as khinkali and khachapuri before, prepare to be blown away. The aromatic flavours and innovative use of produce in Georgian cooking will make you re-think your definition of ‘delicious’.

I don’t care what time of year you’re visiting, you should always plan your Tbilisi itinerary around eating. Winter is probably my favourite time to restaurant hop, firstly because so much Georgian food is tailor-made for winter, and secondly because so many Tbilisi restaurants are warm and homely.

A big part of the reason for this is Georgia’s topography. Much of the country is mountainous and chilly for most of the year, which has resulted in a lot of regional dishes that are purpose-built to warm you up, body and soul. A great example is adjika , a fiery condiment and rub.

There are always lots of protein, dairy and carb-heavy dishes on the menu, including the notorious khachapuri . Rich stews and simple dishes like lobio (beans in a clay pot) are hearty and nourishing. Nothing beats a piping hot bowl of chikhirtma (Georgian chicken soup) on a cold winter’s day.

If you’re visiting around Christmas or New Year, you might get an opportunity to savour traditional festive fare such as gozinaki (a walnut and honey dessert). Funnily enough, satsivi , another popular holiday dish made with creamy walnuts and chicken or fish, is actually served cold.

5. Climb a hill to get your heart pumping

The heart of Old Tbilisi is quite flat, but as soon as you venture beyond the centre you’ll see there are hills all around the city. The best way to see Tbilisi in all her splendour is from afar. For that, you’re going to need your sensible shoes.

There are viewpoints aplenty to be discovered, each with a different vantage. My personal favourite (pictured here) is from the hills above Abanotubani. A new set of stairs and paths makes it easy to reach this lookout (see below for directions).

The most quintessential city views are from Narikala Fortress and Mtatsminda , accessible by cablecar and funicular respectively. In winter it’s usually cool enough to either walk up or down depending on your preference.

Betlemi Rise and upper Vake, above Vake Park towards Turtle Lake, are great alternatives.

Insider tip: Here’s a round-up of Tbilisi’s best viewpoints with directions and photography tips.

6. Go museum hopping

When you need to escape the chill, Tbilisi has quite a few indoor attractions that are worth the ticket price. Chief among these are the state-run museums and galleries on Rustaveli Avenue. Many are walking distance from each other, so you can spend an afternoon museum hopping, stopping off at a cafe or two along the avenue as you go.

The Georgian National Museum (including the Soviet Occupation Hall) and the Museum of Fine Arts are my top picks. Be sure to go inside the Apple of Love in the MoMA courtyard as well.

If you’re interested in textiles and design, the State Silk Museum should be on your list (although do note that it is closed for restorations until 2024).

The Wine Museum is located underground in a brick cellar and is perfect for escaping the chill. And don’t miss my personal favourites: The Georgian Art Palace and the Museum of the History of Georgian Medicine , both in Chugureti district (near Fabrika). Find two more excellent museum spaces below – numbers 10 and 11 on this list.

There are a range of independent art spaces in Tbilisi as well, most of them free to visit.

Insider tip: Here’s a list of my must-visit Tbilisi museums and galleries .

7. Admire the winter produce at the Dezerter Bazaar

Tbilisi’s Dezerter Bazaar is the inner city’s main produce hub, a sprawling jumble of open-air and undercover stalls. Every morning, wholesalers, homemakers and restaurateurs alike descend on the market to buy up rounds of farm cheese, carved meat and fresh fruit and veg by the boxful. It’s a cacophony of colour, commerce and food culture .

In spring and summer, the market overflows with vibrant fruits. In winter, I particularly enjoy browsing the indoor part of the market which takes on the character of a gigantic kitchen pantry stocked with every kind of spice and dried herb you can possibly imagine. There are plenty of bebias around, all of them inviting you to try their offerings.

Pickling and preserving is very popular in Georgia as a way to keep fresh produce in circulation during the cold months. Winter is a great time to see the most luxurious market pickles alongside apples, beats, cabbages, and other seasonal veg.

Be sure to wander around the periphery of the market, where you can find hand-knitted woollen socks and other winter crafts. There are a number of bakeries on the street outside the market where you can buy a piece of oven-fresh, still-steaming puri bread – the ideal winter snack.

Insider tip: Read my guide to visiting the Dezerter Bazaar to learn how the market is laid out and what produce you should look out for.

8. Try a Georgian cooking class

One of the most rewarding ways to spend an afternoon indoors in Tbilisi is by joining a cooking class . Learning how to twizzle and pinch the doughy nob on a khinkali is a life-skill you’ll carry with you always.

Georgian Flavors is a wonderful boutique culinary tourism company run by my friend, Irma Laghadze. She offers private masterclasses in Tbilisi and Kutaisi throughout the year, including in winter.

Read more about Georgian Flavors and how to make a reservation here .

9. Discover Tbilisi’s painted entryways

Quiet streets and subtle light makes winter the perfect time to photograph Tbilisi’s impressive architecture. Sololaki and Old Avlabari are home to some of the most gorgeous crumbling buildings, while Chugureti, the old German neighbourhood, has its own vibe.

Tbilisi’s interiors are every bit as spectacular as its crumbling facades. If the chill bites too hard, dive through the doorway of one of the old merchant houses to drink in the exquisite frescos, spiralling staircases and marble floors constructed at the turn-of-the-century to appease the expensive taste of the city’s wealthiest residents.

Insider tip: If you’re unsure where to start, here is a compilation of some of Tbilisi’s most iconic buildings and where to find them. If you want to explore interiors, I suggest joining a tour led by a local.

10. Get lost in a novel at the National Parliamentary Library

Despite being right in the centre of the city, not many tourists know to visit the Museum of Books. On a winter’s afternoon you will no doubt have the entire place to yourself – free to roam the aisles and leaf through the pages of history.

Holding more than 19,000 rare books on its bulging shelves, this is the largest literary-themed museum in the Caucasus (a nice juxtaposition to Baku ‘s Museum of Miniature Books in neighbouring Azerbaijan). Launched quite recently in 2017, it holds a permanent exhibition of historical books, including a 17th-century manuscript of Shota Rustaveli’s epic The Knight in the Panther’s Skin .

At the adjacent National Parliamentary Library, you can find a table in the reading room to catch up on some work or cosy up in a corner with a good book . The thing that really makes the Museum of Books worth visiting is its ornamented interior – the detailed ceiling frescoes, chandeliers and carved staircase makes it one of the most stunning buildings in Tbilisi.

The Museum of Books is open from 10am until 6pm weekdays. Entrance is free.

11. Lift your spirits at the Academy of Arts Mirror Halls

Another gorgeous interior in Tbilisi, the State Academy of Arts is one of the oldest educational institutions in the region. Its setting, a former private mansion that belonged to Armenian merchant Vardan Astvatsatryan Arshakuni, is beautiful beyond belief.

The highlight is the Qajar-style Mirror Halls, crafted by Persian masters who were specially brought to Tbilisi to work their magic. Back in Iran, this type of mirror work – where tiny pieces of glass are arranged in geometric patterns – was purposefully used in the home’s winter quarters to increase natural light flow and bring joy to the residents on cloudy winter days. I couldn’t think of a more suitable building to visit in Tbilisi in January or February!

Along with the gorgeous Golestan-style mirrors, you’ll see Persian-style miniature paintings, muqarnas plaster and mashrabiya stained-glass windows. There are many similarities to the Khan’s Palace in Sheki .

The Tbilisi State Academy of Arts Museum is open on weekdays from 10am until 6pm during the university semester (closed on public holidays). Entrance is free.

Insider tip: See this guide for more photos of the Mirror Halls and tips for planning your visit.

12. Uncover Tbilisi’s Soviet architecture, mosaics & underground bunkers

If Brutalism is more your thing, winter is the perfect time to explore Tbilisi’s Soviet-era architecture and mosaics . Winter skies are the perfect backdrop to concrete buildings, and fewer leaves on the trees makes it easier to appreciate and photograph bas-reliefs, mosaics, and other decorations.

Visit the Chronicles of Georgia , a fascinating sculptural ensemble with wonderful city views. It’s windy up on the hill, so be sure to wear your warmest gear!

The Tbilisi Skybridge is another Tbilisi marvel. Built in the 1960s, this experimental housing complex features a high-rise bridge that connects the different apartment blocks.

See it plus the Former Archaeology Museum and abandoned underground water cisterns, the Jenga-like Ministry of Highways building and other architectural icons on Friendly.ge’s brilliant Brutal Urban Exploration Tour . Use the code wanderlush at checkout to get 10% off.

For something different, Tbilisi’s first and only legal underground bunker tour with local guide Tornike (AKA Wise Guy) takes you into the depths of a nuclear fallout shelter beneath the city. Book a private tour via Tornike’s Facebook Page .

Insider tip: Here is a shortlist of my favourite Soviet-era architecture in Tbilisi plus how to see each of them.

13. Shop for traditional Georgian souvenirs

Beyond the usual tourist shops, Tbilisi is overflowing with sweet stores, specialty boutiques and outdoor markets where the city’s artists, designers and crafters trade their goods. You won’t have any trouble finding handmade and authentic souvenirs to take home as keepsakes – but you might struggle with editing your purchases down to suitcase-size.

Popular handicrafts include lurji supra (blue tablecloths), clay pottery, cloisonne enamelware, and silver jewellery.

There are plenty of independent designers and boutiques around Tbilisi, including EthnoDesign and Concept Store ESKI that both sell Christmas ornaments and winter woollies. Funduki has an online shop where you can buy these delightful hand-knitted winter slippers inspired by traditional Tushetian designs.

Insider tip: Here is a full list of my favourite Tbilisi souvenirs , with a free map to help you with your shopping in Tbilisi.

14. Go antiquing

Rummaging Tbilisi’s antique markets and shops is another great activity for a winter’s morning. If you get a sunny day, head to the city’s most popular flea market, the the Dry Bridge , for a huge selection of trinkets and memorabilia. It is held every day throughout winter provided there is not heavy rain or snow.

My favourite lesser-touristy alternative to the Dry Bridge is Barakolkha , a local antique market located inside the sprawling Navtlughi Bazaar near Samgori Metro Station. The second-hand section and formal antiques shops around Mevele Dead End stock a wonderful selection of Georgian, Soviet-manufactured and retro European furniture and knickknacks.

Though it mainly sells furniture and large items, Studio 995 in Isani (pictured above) is also great for a browse. This massive second-hand shop is located inside a warehouse and is literally packed to the (concrete) rafters with ‘stuff’ – there’s even a Mini Cooper in there!

15. Cosy up at a cute cafe

Another thing Tbilisi definitely doesn’t lack is cute cafes. Specialty coffee is becoming more and more popular in Georgia, and cafes such as CoffeeLAB and Shavi Coffee Roasters (which both roast their beans on-site), Santino, They Said Books and Pulp all serve high-tech specialty brews.

A spot of cafe hopping might be just what the weather orders on a brisk winter’s day. Choose between modern cafes with chic interiors like Erti Kava (pictured) and cosy cafes that personify old-world Tbilisi elegance such as Leila or Linville.

Insider tip: A few cafes open early and serve breakfast and sweets alongside hot drinks. Here are my favourite laptop-friendly cafes in Tbilisi for great coffee .

16. Join a Georgian tea ceremony

If you’re not a coffee drinker – or if you just want to have an offbeat experience in Tbilisi – be sure to check out Bitadze Tea Shop in the historic Sololaki neighbourhood. This family-run tea merchants and museum is one of Tbilisi’s best-kept secrets . It’s tiny and snug; one of the most magical places to escape winter for a while.

Let Giorgi, second-generation tea connoisseur , lead you down the rabbit hole of tea history. He can even perform a tea ceremony for you using white and green leaves grown locally in Georgia’s Guria region .

I never knew Georgia had a tea industry until I met Giorgi. The story of how tea first came to Georgia is a fascinating one (I’ll save it for another time). Without any body to formally organise tea growers, the Bitadze family stepped in to support co-ops and promote Georgia’s reputation abroad.

Browse the tea ephemera Giorgi and his father have accumulated over the years, and buy some loose leaf tea to take home.

17. Watch a Georgian dance performance

Georgian dance is an incredible display of the country’s vibrant culture and the physical prowess of the athletes who are trained to perform it. There are many different genres of folk dance; the most popular are Kartuli (wedding dance), Acharuli from Adjara region, and Khorumi (war dance).

Perfecting the moves is an important part of many young children’s education. Between the sumptuous costumes and the blazing fire balls (yes, some routines really do involve dancing with flames), watching a live performance is a heartwarming, stirring experience.

After touring overseas in summer, Sukhishvili Georgian National Ballet returns home to Tbilisi in autumn/winter. If you get the chance, do not miss seeing them at the Opera Theatre or their outdoor stage, Takara. I was lucky enough to sit in on a Sukishvili dress rehearsal and later attend one of their proper shows. Watching them is a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Meanwhile many restaurants around the city host troupes along with live music, singing and of course ample wine and feasting. Performances are held nightly during dinner service at Ethno Tsiskvili, Tabla and other venues, and last for around an hour. Advance bookings are usually recommended, especially for Ethno Tsiskvili.

Insider tip: Here’s a list of restaurants with Georgian folk dance and live music .

18. Enjoy Tbilisi’s theatre & ballet season

Alongside dance, Georgia has a long and significant history of drama and performing arts. If you visit Gori , be sure to check what’s on at the George Eristavi State Drama Theatre , one of the oldest institutions in the region.

In Tbilisi, there is no shortage of venues to catch an evening opera, orchestral performance or stage play. Winter is the cultural season so if the weather is particularly icy, this is one of the nicest ways to while away a winter’s eve.

My top choice is actually the marionette show at Rezo Gabriadze Theatre . Yes, it uses puppets – but trust me, the plot lines are not at all childlike (and not always suitable for kids either). The puppets tour in summer and only play in Tbilisi during autumn and winter.

Rustaveli Theatre , meanwhile, hosts contemporary stage shows and often features Shakespeare on its holiday playbill.

Speaking of stunning interiors: You can’t visit Tbilisi without setting foot inside the Opera and Ballet Theatre (pictured above). If you’re walking along Rustaveli Avenue, the striated gold-and-red facade will no doubt grab your attention. Just wait until you see the foyer…

Established in 1847 and originally Christened the Caravanserai Theatre (a nod to Tbilisi’s Silk Road heritage ), the theatre has attracted many eminent performers and spectators throughout its history, including French author Alexandre Dumas, the Vienna Empire Operetta, and the St. Petersburg Ballet Company. It is the birthplace of Tbilisi’s Philharmonic Society and the national opera.

The first building (located at present-day Freedom Square) was destroyed by fire in 1874, but the second theatre, completed in 1896, is every bit as beautiful as the original. The Moorish-style decorations in the lobby and foyers are so ornate, you really have to see it in person to appreciate the craftsmanship.

Check show times and buy tickets for all the venues mentioned above on the TKT.GE website .

Special winter activities

If your travel plans happen to coincide with these dates, here are more special Tbilisi winter activities that revolve around festivals and Christmas/New Year traditions.

19. Buy a Chichilaki & participate in Orthodox holiday traditions (from mid-December, 2023)

The second country to adopt Christianity after neighbouring Armenia , Georgia has been a predominantly Orthodox nation since the 4th century. More than 80% of Georgians identify as Orthodox, which naturally means the Christmas holidays are kind of a big deal – second only to Easter in terms of importance.

Like Easter, Orthodox Christmas falls a couple of weeks later on the Julian calendar. The whole city lights up from mid-December with half a dozen different feast days and important religious holidays falling between December and January.

Special rituals such as eating Christmas foods (a few of which I mentioned earlier) are observed, and Tovlis Babua (‘Snow Grandpa’) – AKA Georgian Santa Claus – comes to visit. He lives in Svaneti , wears a felt coat and Svanetian hat, and carries presents in a saddle bag!

One of the most interesting Georgian Christmas traditions are these peculiar-looking Christmas trees. Known as Chichilaki , they’re fashioned from the dry, shaved branches of a hazelnut or walnut trees. On January 18, Epiphany Eve, families ceremoniously burn their Chichilaki to symbolise new beginnings. I’ve also seen them hoisted high in the branches of trees on the streets of Tbilisi – keep a lookout!

It’s traditional to give your neighbours and friends candies and chocolates during the holiday period (sweets symbolise youth and good luck), so be sure to carry some with you at all times. If you visit a Georgian family during the holiday period, it’s polite to bring them a sweet something such as a box of chocolates.

Even if you don’t have a religious bone in your body, the holiday season is still a wonderful time to be in Georgia.

20. Visit the Tbilisi Christmas Markets (December 16, 2023 – January 7, 2024)

Tbilisi takes on a special vibrance during the holiday period, with elaborate light displays and festive decorations along Rustaveli Avenue and Freedom Square. The pièce de résistance is the gigantic Christmas Tree that gets hoisted up in front of Parliament every year.

Christmas villages and Christmas markets pop up in Tbilisi from the middle of December and last until January. Tbilisi City Hall’s official markets are held in Orbeliani Square and in Dedaena Park. Various private markets are hosted on weekends in December by venues such as Fabrika, a reclaimed Soviet factory turned creative space.

Tbilisi Christmas Markets offer a mix of handicrafts and food. You can try special Georgian festive fare (including mulled Saperavi wine!) and shop for locally made gifts.

Inside tip: Check out my guide to the holidays in Georgia for all things Christmas and New Years related.

21. Watch the Alilo Parade (January 7, 2024)

Orthodox Christmas Day, January 7, is an official holiday in Georgia and traditionally a time for family. After attending midnight mass, many people join the Alilo , an annual Christmas Day parade where participants roam the streets of Tbilisi, Batumi and other large cities to collect donations and food for vulnerable families.

In Tbilisi, the Alilo starts from First Republic Square at around 1pm and finishes at Sameba Cathedral, Tbilisi’s main church . Participants dress in religious regalia and beautiful costumes and sing and chant their way down the streets. Visitors are welcome to attend and observe the ritual.

The most significant date on Georgia’s Christmas calendar is not January 7, though – it’s December 31. This is a leftover from Soviet days when religious holidays were banned.

22. Ring in the New Year in Tbilisi – twice!

If you like to party, you’re in for a treat: Georgia celebrates New Year’s Eve twice. New New Year (AKA International New Year) is celebrated on December 31 with the usual parties, dinners and live concerts (after dinner with the folks, of course). In Tbilisi, you’ll see fireworks going off from every balcony and street corner. It’s unlike anything I’ve seen (or heard) before in my life!

On January 1, families observe the tradition of Mkvleoba . It says that the first guest to enter your home after midnight will determine how the rest of the year unfolds – so if you happen to be invited over, make sure you bring your best candy with you (sweets are a symbol of good luck, prosperity and youthfulness).

January 2 is Bedoba , a ‘personal day’ where you would traditionally do something nice for yourself (hang out with friends, get a manicure) to set the tone for your year ahead.

Old New Year , marked on January 14 according to the Julian calendar, is a much more subdued affair, celebrated with a family supra feast and maybe a few sparklers.

Best day trips from Tbilisi in winter for snow & scenery

The best day trips from Tbilisi to take during winter involve escaping the city to see some snow. Kazbegi in the Greater Caucasus north of Tbilisi is my top pick.

Travelling along the Georgian Military Highway , you can stop off in Gudauri to ride the ski lift and admire the powdery snowfields before visiting Gergeti Trinity Church . If you have time to stay the night, the private outdoor hot tubs at Rooms Hotel are winter bliss.

Here’s how to travel from Tbilisi to Kazbegi by bus or private car.

Alternatively, head to the mountains south-west of Tbilisi to visit Borjomi , where you can soak in the Tsar’s sulfur baths and take a side-trip to the winter resort at Bakuriani for skiing or snowshoe hiking. See more things to do in Borjomi .

Insider tip: See more great places to visit in winter in Georgia here .

Where to stay in Tbilisi in winter

Tbilisi has a good range of hostels , family run guesthouses and charming boutique hotels to choose from. In winter, to limit your time outdoors, it’s a good idea to stay in the inner suburbs of Old Tbilisi, on either side of the river. You can find my detail Tbilisi neighbourhood guide here .

Central gas heating is standard for most places. If you’re staying in an Airbnb , I highly recommend choosing a place with plenty of natural light and ventilation so it doesn’t get too stuffy and dank.

See my Tbilisi neighbourhood and accommodation guide for a detailed break-down of the different areas and options. Here are my top overall Tbilisi hotel recommendations:

TOP CHOICE: The Blue Fox Hotel (⭐ 9.7). Located in the heart of Kala Old Town, this intimate 17-room hotel (formerly The House Hotel) features turquoise balconies overlooking a typical Tbilisi courtyard. Complimentary breakfast is served at the onsite restaurant-bar, while some of the city’s best restaurants are an easy stroll away.

BOUTIQUE: Communal Plekhanovi (⭐ 9.2). Located in my favourite Tbilisi neighbourhood, this boutique hotel is among the finest in the city. Rooms are thoughtfully decorated with modern art and antiques, and there’s a fantastic restaurant, a wine bar and a gift shop onsite.

MID-RANGE: Graphica Hotel (⭐ 9.2). Explore the lesser-travelled Avlabari neighbourhood when you stay at this chic boutique hotel. Graphica is footsteps from the metro for easy access to the rest of the city. Rooms feature work desks, and a complimentary breakfast is included.

BUDGET: Pushkin 10 Hostel (⭐ 9.2). Located footsteps from both Orbeliani Square (near the Dry Bridge Market) and Freedom Square, this popular hostel has bright dorms and private doubles. The breakfast room overlooks the city from its 3rd floor location.

What to wear in Tbilisi in winter

If you’re visiting Tbilisi in winter, you’ll need a fleece layer, a proper outer coat, boots, and standard woollies (hat, thick socks and a scarf) at a minimum. I feel the cold, so I usually wear thermal leggings under my jeans in winter. I’ve never had to go as far as to don mittens, though!

Layering is absolutely key here – make sure you can easily remove a layer if you need to. The underground metro, for example, is very warm and a bit claustrophobic. Some underground restaurants and wine bars get very warm as well.

If you discover you didn’t pack enough warm gear, Tbilisi is brimming with second-hand and vintage shops where you can easily pick something up for a couple of dollars.

If you want to blend in, go for darker colours, especially when it comes to outerwear. Plain wool coats are more widespread than puffy jackets or fur coats.

What to pack for Tbilisi in winter

You won’t need waterproof gear for Tbilisi, but you’ll definitely need it if you plan to visit the mountains after the city. If you are trekking, then you should pack quick-dry clothing, proper waterproof boots, and a few extra layers of clothing of course.

Woolly slippers are easy to come by in Georgia, and every hotel/guesthouse/Airbnb I’ve ever stayed at has had a hairdryer (no need to bring your travel version). You might want to pack a hot water bottle if you use one (although these are readily available at pharmacies).

Apart from that, I highly recommend packing a travel laundry line so you can hang your washing up inside (tumble driers are a rarity in Georgia).

Note that the climate in other parts of Georgia differs considerably to Tbilisi, and you’ll experience vastly different conditions in Kutaisi , Batumi , and especially in the mountainous regions .

Further reading: My all-seasons packing list for Georgia & detailed guide on what to wear in the different regions.

Important things to know before travelling to Tbilisi & Georgia in winter

Tbilisi operates as normal during winter, but there are other places in Georgia that come to a standstill. Remote mountain areas including Tusheti (in eastern Georgia’s Kakheti region ) and Ushguli (Svaneti) are inaccessible during the winter months. Winter isn’t the best time for trekking in Georgia.

Conversely, winter is obviously the peak season for skiing and snowboarding . Resorts in Gudauri and Bakuriani book out over the holidays.

It’s important to remember that the days are quite short in winter. Factor this in when travelling between cities and planning your days out.

Overall, winter is a great time to travel to Tbilisi and Georgia , especially if you’re interested in food, culture and history rather than hiking or outdoor activities. It’s low season in Tbilisi, so the city is much quieter and better value for money in many respects.

Tbilisi in winter: Final thoughts

Tbilisi is an all-weather destination – there’s really no ‘bad’ time to visit. Winter brings a festive atmosphere, and the cold weather is a good excuse to overindulge in food and wine (not that you needed one!).

I love getting rugged up and spending time indoors at a good museum or in a friendly cafe. Of course there are plenty of blue-sky winter days as well when you can get out and explore.

If you prefer trekking and spending all your time outside, you might consider visiting in spring or summer instead.

Are you thinking of visiting Tbilisi this winter?

Tbilisi in winter: Share it on Pinterest

Georgia essentials.

Here are the websites and services I personally use and recommend for Georgia. Check out my full list of travel resources for more tips.

FLIGHTS: Search for affordable flights to Tbilisi, Batumi or Kutaisi on Skyscanner .

TRAVEL INSURANCE: Insure your trip with HeyMondo , my preferred provider for single-trip and annual travel insurance (get 5% off when you book with my link).

SIM CARD: Magti is my preferred provider, with prices starting from 9 GEL/week for unlimited data. See this guide for all the details about buying a Georgian SIM card .

AIRPORT TRANSFERS: Most flights into Georgia arrive in the early hours. For ease, pre-book a private transfer from Tbilisi Airport to your hotel (from $17) or from Kutaisi Airport to Tbilisi (from $90) with my partners at GoTrip.ge.

ACCOMMODATION: Booking.com is the most widely used platform in Georgia. Use it to find family guesthouses, private apartments, hostels and hotels around the country.

CAR HIRE: Find a great deal on a rental car in Georgia – use the Local Rent website to book through a local agent (prices start from $20/day).

DAY TRIPS & CITY TOURS: Use Viator or Get Your Guide to browse a range of day trips and city tours. For off-beat programs, I recommend Friendly.ge (use the promocode wanderlush for 10% off). For in-depth day trips to Georgia’s wine regions, I recommend Eat This! Tours (use the promo code wanderlush for 5% off).

PRIVATE TRANSFERS: GoTrip.ge is a terrific service for booking a private professional driver and car for the day. Use it for A-to-B transfers, a customised round-trip itinerary, or a multi-day trip. You can stop wherever you like for as long as you like without the fixed price going up.

NEED SOME HELP?: Need feedback on your itinerary or personalised travel tips? I offer a one-on-one consultation call service for Tbilisi and Georgia. More information and bookings here .

You might also be interested in…

• The ultimate Georgia itinerary : Four detailed & custom-designed itineraries
• Georgia Travel Guide : All of my 200+ posts plus my top travel tips
• Georgia travel tips : 25 essential things to know before you go
• Places to visit in Georgia : 50+ unique & underrated destinations around the country
• The best things to do in Tbilisi : Favourites, hidden gems & local picks
• 35+ best restaurants in Tbilisi : Where to eat Georgian food
• 15 best day trips from Tbilisi : With detailed transport instructions
• The best time to visit Georgia : Month-by-month guide to weather, festivals & events

Thanks for the details information about Georgia/ Tbilisi. I read all the information and decide to go on my first solo trip. and it was a very successful trip done by my own. by using public transport. all the information was very helpful. I appreciate for all the small details given by you.it was really helpful.

Thanks again.

I’m very happy to hear that! Thank you for your comment. I hope you will get a chance to visit Georgia again soon. Take care!

Hi Emily, This is by far the most extensive guide on Georgia that I have come across. Thank you very much for putting this out here, it is really quite helpful. Your Tbilisi in winter guide covers things to do in peak winter in quite detail but doesn’t mention much about the earlier winter days. Do you have any specific recommendations for early December? Is it a good time to visit Georgia? Thanks, Ansita

Hi Ansita, thanks so much! The reason for that is that December is almost a continuation of autumn. The weather is still very pleasant outdoors. Any of these activities are suitable, and you can find more suggestions here: https://wander-lush.org/tbilisi-in-autumn/

Have a wonderful trip!

Dear Emily, I’m speechless about this wonderful, complete reporting. I don’t know what to say. This is strictly and by far THE VERY BEST of travel reporting ever. It is particularly helpful to me since I’m planing to visit Tbilisi now in October. Congratulations to a marvelous achievement and great many thanks! Gerhard

That’s very kind of you, thanks Gerhard! Enjoy your trip to Tbilisi and do check out my autumn guide as well!

Hi Emily. Don’t know if you’ve already covered this but have you been to been to the Tbilisi reservoir yet? Visited out of curiosity while in the city last June and was well worth it. Almost like visiting the seaside in places – you wouldn’t have believed there was a city of over one million people just the other side of the rise. Great place to get away from summer heat. Mind you, what with dams bursting both here (UK) and the US in the news of late, it would be catastophic if this one was to do similarly, I guess.

By the by, I was watching a football game from Yerevan on tv last night at around 16:30 – so 19:30 Armenian time – and seeing those shadows and pink light in Yerevan brought on an almost painful yearning for the place. The joys of travel, eh? You always want to be somewhere else 😀

Tbilisi Sea? I haven’t been down there yet, I’ve only viewed it from above, from the Chronicles. I’ll put it on my list to visit when I get back to Tbilisi. Sounds perfect for summer. Thanks for the tip!

Ah I didn’t realise the football was on. Pink light over Yerevan will do that to you 🙂 Just reading that has made me want to go back.

Any plans to return to the Caucasus?

Cheers, Emily

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